REAPER Maintenance, O-ring Replacement, Nozzle Replacement

Video transcript: so this is going to be the technical overview video for the Reaper we’re going to go ahead and start at the back with the solenoid and we’re going to work our way to the front and then we’re going to talk about everything inside here how to tear it down to basic maintenance all that kind of stuff so start with the solenoid the Reaper uses our proprietary three way solenoid this is the same solenoid wit that we use in the bolt this is not the same solenoid as is used in the gen 2 Inferno Gen 2 Hydra any of our other systems like that so keep that in mind that’s why we don’t offer upgrade kits or conversion kits as the case may be for this because you need a bolt cellent a solenoid not a an SP or an inferno or hydra salt line next we’re going to talk about these plugs real fast there are three different plugs there’s actually four but three on the outside that you can see here three different plugs on the body of the valve housing do not remove these ever there is no need to ever remove them these are just plugs that seal machining ports so do not remove these they have a an air sealant an air tight sealant on there it’s probably not something that you will have on hand to replace it if you decide to remove it so like all of our systems we have two lists disassembly here so the two halves of the cylinder just unscrew lay the system out here so you can sort of see what’s going on all right so that’s sort of what goes on inside the system we have our valve housing here which is just all one piece with the little plugs in it again do not remove your plugs you have one o ring on the valve housing there the front is the cylinder this is all one piece you do have one o ring the inside of the cylinder here that’s a one by seven okay and then you have this little assembly now for basic maintenance there is no need to disassemble this assembly you can lubricate your o-rings and everything just fine with this the way it is but we will go over here in a minute how to disassemble that if you want to change nozzles or something along those lines so this is the basic assembly if you’re just tearing it down for basic maintenance you can lubricate the following points you will want to lubricate this surface right here this surface here these o-rings on the outside and this surface right here if you want you can put a little bit of lube on the outside a ring here but it’s not really critical after you lubricate it and just slide it back together and reassemble and that’s your basic maintenance cycle now I’m going to tear it all the way down we’ll talk about how to replace nozzles and o-rings and stuff like that so we’ve gotten this torn back down let’s talk about how to disassemble this assembly what you’re going to do is you’re going to push the nozzle all the way to the back and you will need a 5/16 wrench it can sit right there if you are in if you’re overseas an 8 millimeter wrench probably won’t work but it is sized for 5/16 on the inside there is a four millimeter allen key so we’re going to go from the back of the nozzle the allen key now remember since you are interacting with the front half of the nozzle here you will need to turn it clockwise to loosen the threads because we’re going from the bottom of the threads so we’ll go clockwise and that will break the threads loose so this is fully disassembled and at this point you can replace your nozzle if you want so this is an m4 nozzle but you could put in a different nozzle for your specific gunbuild-2 reassemble all we’re going to do is there are two sides here look different this is what we call this is the front of the system you notice there’s this little u-shaped notch there so that’s the front of the system we’re going to take the nozzle back with the flared portion towards the front and we’re going to go ahead and engage that in the cage so it sticks out the back of the cage now the nozzle and just go in from the front get screwed in tightening it down just like we loosened it we’ve put our wrench on our flats here go through the back of the nozzle and snug it down notice that I didn’t put any Loctite on these these do not come from the factory with Loctite we have not found it to be necessary because the threads are very fine on the nozzle you can add a little bit of Loctite there if it makes you feel better but we have not really found a need for having Loctite in that location but do do make sure you you tighten it down so that it’s good and snug and won’t come loose while it’s running all right so let’s go ahead and pull all the o-rings off here for this process I highly recommend acquiring an o-ring pick it is not essential you can do it with a say a small screwdriver like the micro screwdriver we use but it will make your life much easier if you can have an o-ring if you have an o-ring pick to get some of these out with there are a couple more ohms than on some of our other systems so pay attention and make sure you get them all in the right places so first off I’m going to pull the two o-rings off the outside of the cage here and then there’s one that sits in a groove on the box side of the cage all three of these are the same size so we’ll do those three and go ahead and replace them this is the o-ring kitchen will be included with your system so we have three of these o-rings that are same size here so we’ll go ahead and put them in place there are two grooves at the back here the smaller grooves is the one that takes the array and then one this one we will install right before we’re ready to put together because it so it doesn’t fall out but it sits right in that groove at the back side of the cage now there are two more uh rings on the cage there to internal o-rings on both of these disks so we’ll go ahead and pop them out now when we get to talking about the different color nozzles and cages in a little bit this will make more sense but there are two different size o rings for the two different cages both of those will be included in your kit so these are the appropriate size the black kit uses the smaller of the two they are 1.2 by 9 the purple cage uses 1.2 by 10s which are slightly larger so just compare them make sure that you have the right to for the color that you are doing go ahead and install these so now all the o-rings on our cage are replaced and go over to the nozzle the nozzle front and back each have 100 ring on them you can pop this off and replace that with the there are two smaller rings of the same size here and it will just sit in the groove at the base of the threads the next one is inside the nozzle back install the new one now it’s got two more we’ve done our nozzle our cage can do the one on the valve body that is the same valve body O ring that we use on our inferno and Hydra systems as well valve bodies done now we just have the one that sits right up front here on the inside of the cylinder that went out just be patient with these if you’re not working used to working with smaller rings it can be a little tedious learning the proper technique to get them in place but they will go so just be patient and don’t make sure that you get them in the right place before you assemble it so you don’t damage anything so there are all of our over Ang’s swapped and again at this point we could just continue with reassembling the unit making sure we lubricate all the new o-rings real well but now we’re going to talk switch over and we’re going to talk about the different color nozzles and cages alright so you can see here we have two different sets of the internal assembly the purple and the black are made two different specs that this is part of the air saver technology this this assembly is actually what defines the air saver this is the the functional part of the air saver so when we talk about the Reaper being a reservoir system this space between these two caps here is your reservoir that is what fills up and then flows out to fire the BB so that is your reservoir space the cylinder here just seals it in on the sides one of the final adjustments we made on the Reaper was you noticed it those of you that watch the early video you notice there’s no spring anymore and what we did here was we routed air up to the front so that the air acts instead of the spring the spring actually was only providing part of the force the air was pushing in both directions already but we by changing how the air routed we were able to completely get rid of the spring just simplifies things and improves the performance a little bit but what causes this nozzle to retract because the nozzle starts in this forward position what causes the nozzle to retract is that air is always provided on the front side of the nozzle here so you have constant air pressure there the air pressure on the back holding it forward is only supplied as long as there’s pressure in the reservoir now the surface area on the back is larger than that on the front so when both sides are pressurized that is between shots the nozzle is going to stay forward then as the pressure in your reservoir drops the nozzle will get to a certain pressure where the nozzle starts to cycle back and that’s what allows it to cycle back you notice the nozzle closes off that internal overhang we replaced in the little bit earlier the nozzle hits that oring seals off the air saver so that’s where your air saver portion comes into play and the nozzle cycles back to load the next baby now why the purple and the black well one thing we found that we could do which is a really cool option is by changing the ratio of the two surface areas the surface area on the front that pushes the nozzle back in the surface area on the back that pushes forward by changing that ratio we can adjust how much air volume is delivered to the BB now this allows us to optimize the system for different barrel lengths so the black is the standard nozzle that comes with the system by default this won’t work for virtually any any standard barrel lengths the purple is a ratio that closes earlier so it releases less air so generally it’s going to depend on your barrel bore the weight BBS you’re using and all of that but a good rule of thumb is anything up to 300 millimeters long your barrel can use the purple nozzle if you want to the black nozzle nozzle will work it just won’t be quite as efficient as the purple nozzle will on those short barrel built anything over 300 millimeters you need the black nozzle or you won’t be providing enough air volume to properly fire the BB so this is just sort of a tuning option but a few things I want to note the nozzle the nozzle back and the cage are a matched set in other words you need to use a purple nozzle with a purple base and a purple cage you can’t combine a purple nozzle with a black base and a purple cage or a black base in a black cage all three need to be the same color otherwise it’s not going to work so make sure if you are ordering this if you already if your system has a black nozzle that means it has a black cage and if you want to switch to the purple nozzle you need to get both the purple nozzle and the purple cage you can’t just get the nozzle if you have a purple nozzle and you want to go to a longer barrel build you need to get the black cage as well to mak match your new black nozzle alright so do pay attention to that just so you don’t get things mixed up and and end up with a system which doesn’t want to run so that being said reassembling it with your your different color nozzle is exactly the same as assembling it with the standard color nozzle I’m going to just push the nozzle and cage assembly in to the cylinder and reassemble the two halves of the unit so this has been the technical overview for the new Reaper we hope you appreciated this video and it was helpful to you if you have any questions leave them in the comment section below as always get on facebook give us a like Instagram give us a follow and here on YouTube give us a subscribe so we can bring you more good content like this to help you learn everything you need to know about your Wolverine airsoft products this is going to be a technical overview video for the Reaper Jim – so the Reaper is a design we’ve had out for about three years now it’s done really well for us a lot of people really like this design but we thought it was time for a refresh I wanted to improve on some things that we’ve learned over the years with the Reaper so there are two main things that we’ve done with the Reaper Jim – we’ve improved the loading mechanics and we’ve improved the tuning so those of you that are familiar with the Reaper this is gonna look real similar looks almost identical from the outside it’ll have a different gravy on the backside here that says Gen 2 but overall looks almost identical so cylinder is interchangeable with the original that is the same once we take it off we’ll notice a few things first off there’s now an o-ring on this post right here second we have this spring inside which the original does not have so what we’ve done is in now instead of the nozzle being moved in both directions solely by air the nozzle is actually cycled forward now by a spring which sits in the back of the nozzle right here and then it’s cycled back by air pressure now the reason for this is these right here by using a spring we get consistent loading force regardless of operating pressure means that the nozzle the force that the nozzle loads the BB with is the same regardless of the pressure you’re operating with and it also lets it match it match the loading force almost exactly to what a G’s use which is what most hop ups are designed for so it gives you better compatibility with with aftermarket hop ups from a tuning standpoint what it lets us do is we no longer will use the black and white nozzles and the purple and black pages everything will use a single nozzle and cage design so tuning it for extra long barrels can be accomplished by simply installing a different spring almost all guns unless you’re using something over a five hundred nine millimeter barrel or possibly a little shorter if you’re using wide bore everything under that is going to use the standard spring configuration longer than that you’ll simply have to swap out the spring to get the most out of the system other than that many parts are compatible the solenoids are identical air lines are identical cylinder is identical and the cage we use inside is actually the same purple cage we used on the original Reaper nozzles have been updated you have the new spring inside and the valve housing is updated as well so that’s about it thanks for watching guys