Bluetooth FCU Owner’s Manual

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Note: The Bluetooth FCU was discontinued
on Jan 1, 2022 and the app is no longer updated. Please verify hardware compatibility
before purchase.
Please note that the chip utilized in the Wolverine
Airsoft Bluetooth FCU will not be compatible with
newer Android phones. As a result, we recommend using phones that run on Android 4.3 - 10,
as they are more likely to be compatible.
Install the app, available at www.wolverineairsoft.
com/downloads. Connect a 7.4V LIPO battery
with JST style connector. (Use of other power
sources is not approved and will void the warrant.)
Launch the app. Navigate to the “Scan for Devices” page of the app by swiping left or right. Your
Bluetooth FCU should show up with the name
“Wolverine”. Tap on the device to connect. The
connection status bar at the top of the screen
should indicate that the FCU is now connected by
changing to “Wolverine is now Available” and turning Green.
Note: Bluetooth FCU will time out and turn off
Bluetooth if no commands are sent by the app
for a period of time. If device does not show up
try unplugging the battery and plugging it back in
to re-activate the Bluetooth on the board. The
Bluetooth can also be reactivated by setting the
gun in semi or burst and holding down the trigger for 10 seconds. This will reset the Bluetooth
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Set Passkey
In order to ensure your FCU is secure, the app
will automatically generate a random passkey the
first time you connect to the FCU. However if you
wish to be able to connect from other phone, you
will need to set a passkey of your choosing by navigating to the “Server Settings” Page. A passkey
may be from 1 to 16 ASCII characters.
Change Device Name
To differentiate your FCU from other users of the
Bluetooth FCU, navigate to the Server Settings
page and enter a desired name up to 10 ASCII
characters. Tap “Set Device Name”.
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Core Performance
Navigate to the Core Performance page by swiping left or right in the app. You will see three level
bars labeled “Dwell”, “Burst Count” and “ROF”. The
Core Performance page displays the settings for
the select fire stat the gun is currently set to. By
switching select fire states on the gun each state
can be programmed independently.
Set Dwell
Dwell is the length of time the valve is opened for
when the trigger is pulled. The value is measured
in microseconds and can be adjusted by dragging
the indicator up or down. Value is adjustable from
3500 to 12000. Most set ups use a value between 3500 and 6500.
Set Burst
Burst Count is the number of shots fired in a
burst when the trigger is pulled. Value is adjustable from 1 to Full Auto.
ROF is measured in RPS and is adjustable by dragging the slider from 1 to 55.
When programming is complete, tap the “Lockdown” button on the main screen to turn off the
Bluetooth on the FCU. This will prevent other users from connecting to your FCU at all, and it will
also put the FCU into a low power mode.
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Manual Selector State Display
To display all selector state settings simultaneously navigate to the App Settings page and
toggle on the “Use Manual Selector Performance
Controls” button.
1. Set dwell to 6500-7500
2. Adjust pressure on regulator to achieve desired velocity
3. Reduce dwell in small increments testing the
velocity on the chronograph after each shot until
a small drop in velocity is observed. This is your
point of maximum efficiency.
4. Drag slider to adjust burst to desired setting.
Repeat for each select fire state by switching the
selector switch on the gun.
5. Drag slider to adjust ROF. Repeat for each
select fire state by switching the selector switch
on the gun.
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Tournament Lock
Two independent tournament lock systems are
featured on the Bluetooth FCU. These locks can
operate by themselves or at the same time. The
Absolute Lock out is a simple time based lock
which offers 100% lockdown of all FCU setting --
once the lock is set, IT CANNOT BE UNLOCKED.
Be sure your settings are correct before you
tournament lock! Once set those settings will remain until the time on the clock has expired. Absolute lock is limited to a max of 3 hours. The
Code Lock system is an advanced tournament
lock which allows an event administrator to set a
passcode which can be used to unlock the FCU before the time is up. The Code Lock system has a
max time of 72 hours. Both locks are set relative
to the current time, assuming the FCU remains
powered continuously. The locks do not progress
while the FCU is powered off.
Absolute Lock
To set the absolute lock navigate to the tournament lock page. Use the number bars to select
the amount of time up to four hours. Press the
“Set Absolute Lock” button to set the lock. The
status bar at the top of the screen will indicate
the amount of time remaining in the lock. Additional time can be added to the lock by selecting the
desired amount of added time and pressing the
“Add Time” button again. The max total time for
the Absolute Lock is always 3 hours.
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Code Lock
The CodeLock system is an advanced tournament
lock system. It can be deactivated using an administrative numeric code. To prepare the code lock
for use, follow steps 1-3 on a Bluetooth device
possessing the owner’s passkey for the FCU.
1. Navigate to the Tournament Lock
2. Set the desired time for the lock in the numbers bar and tap “Set Code Lock Time”
3. Enter temporary numeric activation key and
tap “Set Code Lock Temp Key”
4. On any Bluetooth device (does not need to have
password access) connect to the Bluetooth FCU
and navigate to the Code Lock page.
5. Enter the Numeric Temp Key
6. Enter the desired numeric unlock code and tap
“Start Code Lock”. Please note that the numeric
code will disappear as soon as you have pressed
“Start Code Lock”, and there is no way to retrieve
it from the app.
7. To deactivate the lock before time expires enter the numeric unlock code and tap “Unlock Code
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Advanced Settings
Adjusted Full Auto Dwell
To save air on burst/auto, a parameter can be
set to reduce the dwell time when firing in burst or
auto. The system requires a lower dwell time for
follow up shots in a burst especially at higher ROF.
Adjust the parameter as high as possible without
reducing the performance on full auto.
Analog Mode
Adjustments to the dwell and ROF can be made
with the analog dials on the FCU. These will work
seamlessly with the Bluetooth. Turning the dial
on the FCU changes the setting in the Bluetooth.
During normal operation these serve as relative
fine tuning adjustments. Wherever the dial is set
when a value is set through Bluetooth becomes
the current value. Turning one direction or another makes fine adjustments to the value but does
not offer the full range of values. A pure analog
mode can be accessed by setting the dials all the
way clockwise and rebooting the FCU. The dials
will then act as absolute references the same as
the Bluetooth standard FCU until overridden by
sending a command from Bluetooth at which point
they will automatically revert back to being relative adjustments. Note that both pure and relative analog adjustments are completely disabled
for the duration of any tournament lock.
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Passkey Reset
Auto Set Passkey
Upon the Bluetooth app’s first connection to a
new Bluetooth FCU, the app will automatically set
a randomly-generated passkey on the FCU. This
is done in order to reduce the likelihood that users will accidentally connect to the wrong FCU and
modify its settings when other FCUs are present.
Therefore, when connecting with a new phone to
a previously-used Bluetooth FCU, you will need to
enter your stored passkey on the App Settings
page. (If you do not know your passkey because it
has been randomly-generated, please see the section above on setting your passkey.) Enter your
passkey and tap “Correct Stored Passkey”. This
will permanently save the passkey for your FCU
on that phone.
Reset Passkey
If you have forgotten your passkey or need to reset the passkey on your FCU perform the following steps to reset the passkey.
1. Unplug the battery
2. Hold down Trigger
3. With trigger held down plug battery in
4. Continue holding down trigger for 10 seconds
after battery is plugged in
5. See “setting passkey” on Page 3.
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WRAITH Legacy Aero/PDW Installation (Video)

For detailed instructions on installing the WRAITH Aero or PDW for MTW, see the Owner’s Manual or follow along with Rich in this video.

Video transcript: so when you receive your Wraith arrow these are the basically the parts that you’re gonna get have your tank cover the stock stock face the regulator hardpoint adapter and then a toolkit that has a couple fittings your adjustment allen wrench as well as some phone rings which we don’t have pictured here first step in doing this installation is to install the hardpoint adapter so let’s go ahead and do that the next step is going to be to remove the stock buffer tube and to install the Aero parts now in this case we already have a race co2 on this gun but it works exactly the same way you need an Armorer’s wrench once done thread the buffer tube from the receiver then go ahead and separate the upper and lower receiver here you would have already done when you install the hardpoint now from our stock buffer tube we are going to need our castle nut that’s really the only thing we need from the stock buffer tube assembly take your regulator thread it into the back of the receiver now we want to thread it in as far as we can without protruding past the end here and so that you’re not your slot on the bottom of the regulator faces the bottom next we’re going to reinstall the detent and spring if those came out while you were working on the gun now we’re going to take the base notice there is a tab that lines up with the slot on the bottom of the regulator I’m just gonna slide that over pressing the spring for the detent the body pin detent down into the body of the gun making sure that we don’t bend it now we’re going to take our castle nut slide that over the regulator and thread that on to the gun now once we have snugged up the castle nut we’re gonna want to set it you can’t very well use the the armours wrench on this just because of the body here but what we’re gonna do is we’re gonna take a punch or in this case we’re just using an allen key and we’re gonna set it in the notch and we’re just gonna drive drive that around give it a little bit of tighten down make sure that you don’t drive down into the threads of the regulator okay that should be good and snug now and at this point we’re really installed we’ve got to do is top our pins we recommend from time to time putting a little bit of lubricant on the hard pointed after at the back there slide everything together good to go soccer just quickly about the stock here how this works is there’s a button on the bottom which releases the stock hey this is done for a couple of reasons one if you’re using an external airline rather than a tank here it allows you to use this as a multi-position collapsible stock so you can actually run an a si adapter on the back of the regulator here we run a remote line to a tank and run this as a collapsible stock if you so choose but in addition it lets us keep the design more streamlined because in order to install the tank you just push the button and pull the stock out and then we’ll take the tank thread it in take your stock slide it back on now let’s talk about tanks real quickly if you want to use the tank cover you are going to need to use a tank that has a rotatable collar for the threads like this ninja does what we can do is we can loosen up the screws that hold it in place you can actually install it like this then loosen those screws that hold it in place and then you would be able to rotate it until your eye your gauge is on the top surface because what we want is we want it rotated like this so when the tank cover goes on your gauge shows up right like that goes through this opening okay so that’s what we’re that’s what we’re going for here if you don’t particularly care about the the tank cover then most any tank will work you will just end up rotated different positions and you will almost certainly be able to find a position such that you don’t run into the the legs here with either the gauge or the fitting we’ve never really been had any trouble with that but do keep in mind if you want to use the tank cover you will want a type of tank that has an an indexable collar there so tournament lock is sliding collar here just like standard storm regulator in order to adjust the pressure you’re gonna slide it up use an allen key counterclockwise increases the pressure clockwise decreases the pressure once your chronoed where you need to be slide the collar down and you can put a zip tie around this area do note that in order to install the tank cover you will want this slid down then it all snaps together also notice that there is a QD sling point works with standard and QD style slings on the bottom side of the of the base here alright guys that’s it for today I hope that was helpful to you if you have any questions about how to install your wraith Aero setup tuning anything like that be sure to leave us a comment in the comment section below and be sure to check out the rest of the videos on MTW for tuning installation of various other modules and accessories as well

WRAITH Legacy CO2 Adapter Installation

Rich demonstrates how to install the WRAITH CO2 Adapter in conjunction with the Storm HighPressure and BOLT.

Video transcript: hey guys today we’re gonna take a look at how to set up the Wraiths co2 adapter and storm high-pressure rag for use with the bolt here before we get started and the tools we’re gonna want are a 7/16 wrench 1/2 inch wrench and a 9/16 wrench all right also will be helpful to have though it’s not strictly necessary a 3/8 allen wrench first let’s look at the regulator this is the storm high pressure regulator it comes in the box and this is the fitting that comes with your bolt has a mini push-to-connect fitting and then your QD fitting on this side so first thing we want to do is we want to break this apart this is going to take our 7/16 wrench on push-to-connect there are 9/16 wrench on the QD fitting and we’ll just break it apart so we can set the QD fitting aside we don’t need that and we have our push-to-connect next step is going to be to take the storm regulator the high pressure regulator and remove the QD fitting from this side in order to do that easiest thing to do is going to be to hit it with a heat gun and then use your half-inch wrench to loosen it there is a thread sealant on here that comes off a lot easier if you if you heat it up so we’re gonna go ahead and hit it with a heat gun and then remove the fitting so we went ahead and hit it with the heat gun at a pretty high heat for about thirty Seconds to a minute and then we put the regulator in the soft jaws on the vise which will put up a picture up here and used our half inch wrench and remove the fitting now we’re going to take the miniature push-to-connect fitting that we took off of our other QD fitting and we’re gonna put it in the port we just opened up on the regulator get our 7/16 wrench it’s not get down all right so now our regulator is all set let’s take a look at the great co2 adapter so for the race co2 adapter in order to get the proper puncturing process we need to set the length just like on the co2 stock the length is set by rotating these two parts here the threads there adjust the puncture length this is tightened all the way down as you can see we’re gonna back it off a little bit and then we’re going to put our cartridge in well first let’s go ahead and just attach this to our regulator we’re gonna attach to our regulator and we’re going to plug in the air line here so we have the air line for our Wraiths plugged in so we don’t just blow all the pressure through the system and we backed out our engagement our puncture pin engagement a little bit here and what we’re looking for is we want to be able to do this and move the cap all the way to the closed position without putting pressure on the puncture pin and then we’re just going to tighten it down we’re gonna tighten it down until it punctures like so so at this point the system is punctured it’s pressurized all we need to do at this point is we need to set our lock ring in order to prevent that adjustment from moving to do that we’re gonna start by just kind of snugging down the lock ring then don’t over tighten it right now because we’re still going to move it a little bit and then we’re going to go ahead and fire all the air are all the co2 out of the cartridge okay so we emptied the cartridge now we’re going to back up this length adjustment just a little bit you remember if you’ve watched the stock video we back it up one flat here we basically want to do the do the same thing we’re looking for about a sixth of a turn backed off we’re just gonna do right about like that now we’re going to tighten down our lock ring again at this point we’re going to unscrew the co2 adapter from the regulator being careful that we’re turning on this part not this part because if we turn over here we’re gonna change our adjustment again a little bit of pressure in there this is where the 3/8 allen key will come in handy as it will help us tighten that down a little more so again I’m gonna hold on the lock ring and I’m going to just tighten that down a little bit there so now I can put the whole thing back together for my my adapter back on the regulator and get a new cartridge I can see whether I have it set right and you see we pressurized and we are good to go now a good thing to keep in mind is while the lock ring does hold you pretty well in place it’s gonna be a good practice whenever you’re doing this whenever you’re snapping this down to try to hold on to the body here the flats give you some grip there to hold on to as opposed to holding down here because you might end up adjusting this without intending to the lock ring does a pretty good job of holding it in place but it’s not quite as secure as like in the stock where you have the set screw where it really just can’t move at all so again good practice gonna be to hold up here and snap that cap down I don’t remember whether I did that when I was I did this on video here right now but definitely that’s how you want to go about it at this point you’re all set up the whole thing will just slide inside the stocke and you are off to the races you can adjust your pressure obviously here like normal and that will let you set your pressure on your regulator to wherever you need again the storm high pressure will go up to 200 psi the system’s rated for for 180 but the storm high pressure will go up to around 200 and you can adjust it to set for the velocity that you need one other thing I want to mention real fast here is that today this wrench can come in handy and one other way well once you have this together you usually don’t need to take it apart that often if you need to remove the co2 adapter from the regulator this is a smooth surface here and it can be a little difficult to get a good handle on back it off the regulator if you get it on there tighter than you’re able to get off by hand you can disassemble the two halves and you can access that same hex port from the back side and then that’ll let you twist it to get a little more torque on there to break it loose hope that was helpful guys if you have any questions about this get in touch with us and we will do our best to answer them thanks for watching

Feed Tube Disassembly / Reassembly (Video) (For MTWs manufactured before Oct 2021)

Cody demonstrates how to remove and install the standard MTW feed tube.

Note: This video is only for the standard feed tube assembly included on the MTW Billet Series before October 1, 2021.

Video transcript: what’s going on guys so we’ve been getting a lot of you are saying that you’re breaking the feed tubes that you’re having trouble getting them to install correctly so i just want to kind of walk you through the correct way to install the feed tube without actually breaking it it doesn’t take much to break one of these if you get it in there and you push it at an angle at all you’re going to snap one of the arms of it you want to make sure that you’re pushing with you know directly into the receiver and not at an angle whatsoever so just to show you what i’m going to do is i’m going to start out and i’m going to put the arms into the upper receiver first and like i said if i push at an angle whatsoever i’m going to break the arm any kind of angle whatsoever is going to break the arm so the correct way to install it would be to make sure you get your arms into the receiver first kind of slightly depressing on them and then you’re just going to press straight back not pressing at any angle whatsoever and it should snap right in so one of the things that we have noticed is with some of the newer produced feed tubes and if you have an older style receiver they are a bit more tight to get in and one of the ways that i have found that works a little bit easier is to hold the receiver with a barrel pointing up right basically what i do is just come in it’s still the same thing i get start with my arms and i’m depressing a little bit into the receiver and then just push up straight up and it should pop right into place

Quake Maintenance Guide (Video)

Rich demonstrates how to disassemble, maintain and reassemble the QUAKE Stock.

Note: The QUAKE has been discontinued.

Video transcript: one sec all right so this is going to be the technical overview video for the quake we’re going to this is focusing on the mechanical portions we covered the electronics and helps tuning in some other videos so this is just going to be dealing with how to disassemble it do any maintenance you might need to do on it and such so we’re going to go ahead and start with a 7/16 wrench or driver as we have in this case or skimming loosen this up now let’s just pull out the whole sliding mass spring system and for most of for basic maintenance that’s really all you’re going to need to do is take that off lubricate your o-rings these two are rings because there’s only two dynamic o-rings in the system and you can put it back together we’re going to go ahead and break it all the way down here and show you what’s inside in case you need to break it down further now before we get started on the more complete teardown I want to say two things one we don’t really recommend your average person do this there are some small components inside that can be damaged if you don’t do it properly if you’re having a problem with the with the core of the system it’s better to have us dealing with it on warranty or take it to a qualified tech to have them help you with it if you are going to do it there are a couple of tools that you will need you will need a 5/64 allen key and then you will need the one that is probably gonna be a little more difficult to find which is a 35 thousandths LMT this is a very very small allen key they can be found but you might not be able to pick one up at your local hardware store so before you try to do this make sure you have found a source or these tools to take this apart what we’re going to do is take the screw out using our 560 for this point this whole piece can come apart now this is the core of your system this is where your valve and your airline go in this point we can just unthread these two pieces there are no o-rings on this piece here and then this is where you will need your very very small allen key there’s a small set screw which sits right here which we’re just going to back out and then you can get access to your valve if you need it notice I didn’t pull this plug through I recommend just leaving it there unless you really pull that out if you need to completely pull this part you can pop the connector off of here and you can unscrew the valve do take care when you are reinstalling this valve take it out again you’re dealing with very small parts here the o-rings on this valve can easily be damaged if you’re not careful just be very gentle in screwing it back in and just make sure that you don’t feel any binding at all if you feel any binding back it up a little bit and work it until everything goes in nice and smoothly lubricate those o-rings a little bit before you put them back together again just to make sure you don’t damage an o-ring most people will never need to do this again this is just showing you the full breakdown in case you need it there are three o rings on the body here these are all the same o ring and if you need to replace them you’ll notice that there are actually six grooves three of them are air grooves and three of them are over in grooves the grooves that don’t have a port in them are the ones that get the o-rings they have one two three airings and then you have three grooves that have an airport and those do not get a rings that’s that will go ahead and put this back together here stick the air line through plug the valve in there is a small detent on the valve body here that’s what your set screw goes into you’ll notice it’s lined up with the air line so if we line that up and you don’t need to tighten this all the way down it just needs to get flush that’s just keeping the valve housing from where when we tighten the threads down go ahead and install the piece back in make sure you tighten that down and then this can go back into your buffer tube the threaded hole here goes on the bottom side of the buffer tube that’s where that little screw we took out at the beginning goes into just make sure you guide your your wiring and your air line through that’s always when dealing with wiring don’t force anything if it doesn’t want to go back up check what’s sticking and try again there we go so you can see we can find the threaded hole we can rotate this piece until we get it to line up and get our 5/64 you will want to put some Loctite some blue loctite on this or we use vibra tight which resists vibration but isn’t locking like like Loctite is so screw that in this you will want some blue loctite on the large side of the mask goes to the back real quick if you do need to replace the o-rings there’s one on the outside one on the inside just two overhangs can’t really mix them up so the large side of the mask goes to the back towards the spring at the back here we’ll talk about this real fast there you have a spring then you have a little rubber washer and then you have this small retaining plate that the spring sits on the spring goes on then your mass and that whole assembly goes into the back of the system simply tightens down again using our 7/16 wrench or in this case a driver there’s not a need to over tighten that because when you put the whole system together the way this is designed with the nut on this end once it’s installed in the system and then the tightening of the castle nut the tightening of the castle that actually stretches the whole thing and puts tension on on this bulb as well as the nut at the front so that keeps everything locked in place so you don’t need to go crazy on this bolt just tighten it in place and you are all set so that’s how you carry down your quick stock if you have any questions leave them in the comments section below as always comments or suggestions are welcome and give us a like on Facebook follow on Instagram and a subscription here on YouTube so you can get all the latest updates on Wolverine airsoft products thanks for watching guys