Rich demonstrates how to install the REAPER Electromechanical in a V2 and V3 gearbox.
Video transcript: hey guys today I’m worth attack lubricant can we look at the brand-new Reaper the electromechanical version in particular is how to install it alright so the electro mechanical Reaper unlike traditional HPA systems that include a a wire harness and an MCU and all that all you need for the electromechanical is this very simple to wire wire harness that’s what’s included with your reverse cylinder for the electromechanical kit now one of the really nice things there’s a few things about the electromechanical design that we like reasons we went with the electromechanical instead of doing a pure mechanical or something like that now first reason is compatibility you can see I have two different gearboxes here I have a v2 gearbox and a v3 gearbox this is actually out of a brand because you’re utilizing the existing trigger contacts this system is compatible with a really really wide range of guns whether you use a traditional shuttle system or a microswitch trigger all sorts of different designs won’t work whether it’s a v3 trigger mechanism v2 mega trigger mechanism it all works you don’t have to worry about making it fit you know in in different gearbox types now it also maintains a hundred percent of the efficiency and performance of the full version with the FCU and now you don’t have full auto obviously but you don’t have take any hit on efficiency and a pure mechanical system use this air to pilot the system until you end up losing some air just piloting the valve the trigger response is also oftentimes not as consistent here you get the full consistency because it’s still being opened electronically so that’s why let’s get into the how this is really pretty straightforward you will need a a soldering iron and that’s about it other than that I’ll just all your normal tools for getting into the gearbox so let’s pull both these trigger boards out and look at how this is going to be set up you can see on both of these trigger boards there are two wires going in this is really just a switch on almost any aeg it works the same way this is just a simple on/off switch now that’s all we need for the electromechanical you have two wires going in just like on the g2 over here you have two wires going in and all we’re going to do is take the two wires two wire leads that come on the electromechanical wire harness and we’re going to just solder them in like that orientation doesn’t matter because you’re just closing the circuit the direction the electricity is flowing doesn’t matter we have two pads here on the v2 it was in wire in two and then you’ll just simply set it back in gearbox exactly how it was so let’s step over to the solder station and let’s go ahead and solder these in all right so we’re going to go ahead and do this here I’m going to do the v3 board first and we’re just going to desolder there we go these the leads come already pre tinned so we don’t need to tin them a little bit of flux is always a good idea though so we’re going to go ahead and take small pieces of heat shrink slide them over the leads we’ll be able to protect that once we get it soldered on we put a little bit of flux on the connections to make sure that we get a good solid solder joint oh there’s our three board all reduce hit that with a hairdryer or a heat gun if you happen to have one to tighten up your heat shrink now on the v2 board there’s also going to be two pads just you solder them first this pad is actually not very well soldered from the factory so I’m going to put a little extra tinting on it now we’re just going to again the wires are already pre tin so we’re just going to solder them in place and it doesn’t matter which wire goes to which pad there we go that’s your v2 electromechanical trigger installation now to actually install this wiring we’ll take a look at the v2 first just going to drop it in like you normally would and put in your standard screw for your to hold it in and reinstall your shuttle and this just plugs into your solenoid at that point you can run the wires out either back to the buffer tube into the grip whatever you prefer v3 it’s going to be much the same run our wires through going to plug our solenoid in so we can see where the wires need to sit tuck them up above here if we are going to be running the wires through the front then we would do it like that on the Brynn I believe we’re going to be able to run them out the back so we’re going to do that and the wires simply can sit here alright so this is what it looks like once you have the electromechanical installed into v3 you can see the wires come out up at the front here this is your battery wire and I do want to point out one thing when you’re heating up the heat shrink you want to as you heat it to bend it back in towards the gearbox on the stock with the stock switch the wires come out of the gearbox we need to come back into the gearbox to match up with the solenoid just plug this get it out of the way we’re going to run our wires through there what we’re going to do is just pop up the trigger mechanism back in place with the shuttle installed maybe a little snug but just kind of play with it figure out where it’s hanging up just pop in place I like that now we’re just going to take our retaining screw this is the stock screw that in if you didn’t do it when you put it together originally go ahead and put your spring on I was like to do that step separately I just find it easier than messing with the spring while you’re trying to get the trigger unit installed there we go now we can check that our wiring isn’t interfering with the movement of the trigger looks good alright guys so that’s the rundown of how you do the electromechanical installation like we mentioned it works in a really wide range of gun platforms so for instance 417 here has the electromechanical in it again just use a standard trigger switch really pretty straightforward to do great system send the automatic only for this setup and you can always upgrade to the other electronics later if you decide you want full auto thanks for watching if you have any questions leave them in the comment section below give us a follow give us a like give us a subscribe on YouTube and we will see you guys out on the field you
Rich demonstrates how to install an INFERNO in an M4 with V2 gearbox.
Note: For INFERNO Gen 1, refer to this video instead.
Video transcript: all right so our patient today is the salient arms gray from EMG and we are going to go ahead and tear this down and get it ready for installation all right so everything’s disassembled we’ve got the gearbox out here all we’re going to do at this point is just assemble the gearbox as per usual and get rid of everything inside all right so got everything out everything we don’t need has been put away see we still have the trigger in the trigger spring we also still have the selector plate and the safety arm here other than that everything has been set aside if you want at this point you can go ahead and wipe some of the grease out of the gearbox if there’s a lot doesn’t really hurt anything generally cleans up the installation so we’ll go ahead and do that for that we’re just going to use a rag with a little bit of acetone on it worried about getting every last bit but just get majority of it out of there so it doesn’t gunk anything up make it greasy one step we do on all of our installations usually is not necessary but we do it just to make sure is if you have a selector plate here that doesn’t have the metal sleeve on it we go ahead and just chamfer that inside edge a little bit that engages this selector switch a little bit you can see I don’t even have to remove it from the gearbox all I’m doing is breaking that sharp edge so before we go ahead and install everything I want to talk about one thing we do that is not absolutely required but we do it on just about all of our builds um and that is put in alignment screws so I’m going to go ahead and put a couple screws back in the body here now what we’re going to do is we’re going to put in set screws on the sides of the gearbox that will sit in between the gearbox and the lower receiver here so with the alignment screws first thing you want to do is locate where you want them on the gearbox we are going to put them on these two raised surfaces inside the receiver here sort of on the front side of that you can see we have used to Center punch to punch a hole or a starting mark in the gearbox the one thing I will say with that is you have to be careful drilling through here it’s easy to come through on a corner or an edge on the inside and that if you’re not careful can break your drill bit be real careful you want to try to drill through to a spot that is flat on the inside surface as well for instance this hole here if I look inside that’s going to come through right on the bottom flange of the gearbox so I’m going to move it up just a hair all right like that and that should give me enough clearance that I don’t come through so we use 632 set screws for this I have a 760 fourths drill bit that you use to drill the hole and then we’ll tap it one pull it over and to the other side alright so we got our two holes drilled we’re going to take our 632 tap we’re going to tap those holes now we can take our set screws I’ll throw it in just fine you can see that the set screws are basically right across from each other I just eyeballed this I didn’t tried to drill at all as one hole we find that trying to drill at all as one hole I tend to break your drill bit if you’re not careful there are pretty much right across from each other which is what we want – they’re pushing straight across at each other and not twisting gearbox by pushing here and here there we go that’s how we do our alignment screws alright now as far as setting the alignment screws what we’re going to do is start out with we are just going to do it visually and basically set them so that they are the same length on on each side so that they’re fitting snugly in between the receiver there later on we’re going to go ahead and actually check the alignment once the unit is installed and make sure it’s set up perfectly and then we’ll lock tight those screws in place get them all locked down to the move let’s go ahead and take this back out and go ahead and put the system in the gear box alright so we’ll be doing the Spartan Edition here so we’re going to go ahead and put the electronics in we’ll note that we did remove this small stud that sits right here to the trigger spring stud we did remove that on this gear box we found that it made the the board sit in a better position most of the time that’s not really necessary often it’s just part of the gear box but we found the way the holes lined up on this gearbox it let it sit in a better position if we removed that small flat-head screwdriver we’ll take that right out we’re going to run our wiring down here and there’s some two options basically one is to do this and to run it through the center here in some ways that’s the easiest option because then you can just run your wiring right through the center of the grip if you are running your wiring alternatively you can run your wiring right here like the stock wiring however if you do that you can’t just run the wiring through the center of the grip because the section here will pinch the wiring up against the gearbox once you tighten it down so if you want to run it like this then you’ll need to take a dremel or something and open up the slot between those two so you can run the fitting through there and then slide it over so it goes through that hole and doesn’t get pinched we’re just going to run it through the middle so for this installation we’re going to be using the Gentoo inferno we will be using the Wolverine airsoft filtered grip line let’s go ahead and get that installed so now we can plug it into the electronics put it into the gearbox and the the air line in this case is just going to run out right the same way that the wire harness does so now we’re going to install the buffer tube adapter we’re going to take the buffer tube screw thread it in there set that in place right like so put our trigger back in gearbox back together we just reinstall all our screws always make sure that your wiring is not pinched so before we fully tighten this down I’m going to put one in up towards the front where there’s not really any wiring and I’m just going to put it in loosely to hold everything together and I’m going to check and make sure that no wiring is being pinched that everything is free and clear there go ahead and snug everything back down one trick will match mention here is some gearboxes studio variation in the manufacturers the buffer tube adapter stays in place more securely than others the GM P’s it says it’s and to stay in pretty well but if you find that it just wants to fall out of place a lot you can take say a small piece of foam or we’ve even seen people use packing peanuts sounds silly but if it works it’s not really silly and stick it in between the back of the solenoid here and the buffer tube adapter there just to hold it in place there in the gearbox so it doesn’t move around this kind it’s not really necessary but you might find it helpful on some gun you’re working on all right so we got everything installed in the gearbox here we got our alignment set screws installed and roughly adjusted at this point we would go ahead and test the electronics soon we can plug it into air pressure check it make sure that everything is functioning normally always a good idea before you put everything back in the gun if you hadn’t done anything with the alignment screws you’d go ahead and reassemble it normally at this point what we’re going to do is we’re going to go through the alignment process and show you how to do that more precisely make sure everything is locked down so we’re going to go ahead and install the gearbox back in the lower receiver and we’re going to go ahead and put our two pins through again checking the wiring you may be able to see here if I just pressed here my wiring is going to get caught by the pin so we don’t want to do that we want to push the wiring out of the way let the pin pass through on some gearboxes you can use the wire guide keep the wiring out of the way the GMP gearbox is the wiring guide doesn’t work for that application so I would tend to watch out for it I’m going to go ahead and put my front alignment pin in so I have in our lower receiver and if there’s a lot of play in it still you might have to put the grip on as well to pull things together in this case there’s not a lot of play with there’s alignment screws and the two pins and back things are pretty solid so now what we’re going to do is we’re going to take our barrel and hop up out of our upper receiver you’re going to assemble this lower receiver without any barrel and hop-up just like so now we’re going to use another barrel we’re going to slide it down in the far end and the muzzle end of the barrel we’re going to check our alignment as you can see the alignments pretty close it probably would be okay but you see the barrel is sitting a little more towards to the left side of the gun then the nozzle is so we’re going to go back in and use those lineman screws to straighten that up and get that just perfect so we’re going to pull it out and what we’re going to do is we want the nozzle to move towards the left side of the receiver I am going to tighten the screw down by a half turn and then I’m going to back the other side out by a half turn as well do it just right by the same amount you still should be snug there we go got it snug back up there’s no play now we’re going to put it back together and see how we did alright so after our adjustment we got it back together and now when we check barrel lines up perfectly was nozzle and we’re one last time the receiver off and I’m going to put a little dab of Loctite on those two adjustment screws now if this was a vibration heavy application we’d want to put the lock tight on ahead of time so it really got worked down into the threads as it is all we want to do is just you know keep it from moving during normal use so we don’t generally bother taking it all the way back out just put a dab on the outside it will sort of wick down into the threads enough that it won’t really budge during normal use and that way we don’t have to worry about getting this the threads right back in the same position after we take them back out now we’re all ready to go we’re just going to go ahead and put her back together with the grip installed we can go ahead and check now that our selector states are working correctly which they are so now that we got the grip foot back on the buffer tube back put back on we’re just going to do one final check that we’re still lined up which it looks good check out our more focused alignment video as far as how the buffer tube and grip work together to sometimes affect the alignment but in this case we just tighten the grip down then put the buffer tube on and we were we’re all set there so pop it back off one last time put our shiny new mock bolt in there slide it all back together should be good grab some air and test it out alright we are good to go so that was the installation process beginning to end I hope that was helpful showing how all the different steps work together and sort of the process we go through to make sure we get thing things together just right every time so drop us a comment be sure to give us a follow for lots more informational videos as well as product announcements and other good stuff from Wolverine Airsoft
