Installation: PDR-C (Video)

Rich demonstrates how to install a HYDRA in the PDR-C.

Video transcript: all right so today we’re gonna take a look at how to install on one of my personal favorites the Magpul PDRC we’ve got one here we’re gonna go ahead and tear this down before we do that let’s go over quickly what’s gonna come with the Gentoo hydra Magpul PDRC kit you will get your custom wire harness folh replaces the existing trigger block and makes it much easier to install you also get this jumper wire which connects to your solenoid and then you’ll get all your little hardware here for connecting these switches to the 3d printed block you’ll also obviously get your FCU battery airline all the standard stuff so let’s go ahead and tear this down alright now we have arrived at the first sort of tricky part on this gun now you have the pushrod system here and it’s very easy to lose parts if you aren’t careful but the nice thing is this side of the pushrod system we’re going to completely get rid of so you can just go ahead and pull it out there’s three little screws here and there’s a spring attached I like to take the three screws out not the one on the spring so that it retains the spring again getting rid of all that and you can say that see that way the screw here retains the spring so if we need that now we can take that one off this is your magazine release mechanism so this we do want to make sure we hold on to all the parts let’s go ahead and get the wiring here out of the way and what I’m gonna do is I’m just gonna loosen these up I’m not gonna take the screws all the way out you should be able to disengage that push rod mechanism hold the push rod down and pop that up so now the whole gearbox can just pull out of the lower and we will set the lower aside for me I’m gonna go to work on the gearbox there are a few pieces that you are not going to need anymore I’ll go ahead and take them off this is again just part of your trigger mechanism it doesn’t hurt to leave it on but also doesn’t help just go to town taking gearbox apart should all be Phillips head screws this does have a quick change spring mechanism so well take advantage of that to decompress the spring before we pop the gearbox in here you might want to do that before you take all the screws out so take a six millimeter hex key and of course we don’t need that anymore so now we can split the gearbox we got all the screws go let us know pretty quickly if we didn’t so I forgot about this at this point we do have to actually take this all the way off take it off carefully so you don’t send any of these little screws flying one more screw right there now so pull out all our gears all right so the switch we’re not going to use so you can decide or it if you want that would be the neat way to do it for the sake of keeping this on video I’m just going to trim the wires right into the switch if I wanted to I could salvage that have enough wire there so set that aside as well and the wiring can go to one more piece of the trigger mechanism here cutoff lever you don’t have to remove this but why not at this point I’m gonna take this over and wash it out because it’s pretty greasy and it’s got a good bit of grit in there looks like the gears were grinding pretty badly so I’m gonna go ahead and wash this out and then we’ll come back and do more video gave you a quick little acetone bath just to clean it up wiped it down with a paper towel to get most of the grease off and now we’re gonna go ahead and drill the air line let’s talk about how we’re gonna do that now in this gun we want the air line hole in both the gearbox and the body to line up here’s what we’re gonna do notice I’ve put four screws back in one two three four that’s just to support the body while we drill now I’m gonna put the gearbox back in and I’m gonna put in back in a couple of our screws that hold the gearbox into the body of the gun one front one back should be fine for what we’re doing just something to hold it in place now the easiest way to make sure that both holes we drill out drill line up in the same place is going to be to drill them sort of at the same time but here’s how we’re gonna do it I went to airline to come out right about here in this case so my preferred location on this gun now ultimately we’re gonna want a 3/8 hole because we’re gonna do an FGL here but to get us started I’m gonna start with about 1/8 inch drill bit I’m gonna find a spot I want there’s a little bit of a scheme in the body you can find just locate in the center and then I’m going to drill through the gearbox or sorry through the body of the gun and just far enough that I feel I feel it hit the gearbox and then just run a little bit you’re not trying to drill through the gearbox there you’re just trying to mark it mark it in line with the hole you just drilled so let’s go ahead and see got here alright so looking in the body we have our hole right here or pilot hole have a matching mark on the gearbox or we can go ahead and drill that out so now I’m going to take this over to device I’m going to go ahead and drill my larger hole again I’m doing an F G L so we’re gonna do 3/8 if you’re just doing a standard line you could get away with 5/16 or maybe even a quarter inch for this purpose we’re gonna go ahead and do a 3/8 hole right there and right there on the body alright so got our hole drilled nice and centered it was a good idea to deburr those edges use a file or if you have one a debugging tool so let’s go ahead and finish up with the gearbox here real quick and then we move on to the rest of the installation these screws back out alright so here’s our agenda Hydra the PDR is actually a below Center nozzle so the Hydra logo is going to go on the back side this is going to get an F GL I said I’m already upgraded and only thing you gotta watch for is if we line up the airline where we want it and then we look we’re running into the c-clip here so what I’m gonna do I’m just gonna rotate this around a moment go ahead and install the airline writing it down with a quarter inch wrench don’t don’t need to over tighten it just snug but now when I rotate this back around to where I want it it’ll push the c-clip with it so you can get it lined up where you want this can just drop right in there our airline and go out the opening we just drilled there the only other thing we got to do is take our wiring jumper here plug it into the back of the solenoid and then it just comes and out the back of the gearbox where the quick change spring guide go so you go ahead and put the gearbox back together remember to check that your two little screw plates are in there and also just remember that you’re gonna have to pop the mag catch forward we’re free to move your box screws back in as is often the case with these builds we’re not going to put all the gearbox screws back in just because there’s really no need for all of them once you don’t have the load of the gears and spring and all that so we’re just gonna put in enough to hold it securely we’ll do four here different corners notice I left this one out because that one’s annoying disassembling it in the future got all of your box done only final thing we have to do is go ahead and reattach the plate here for the mag release lever so you gotta hook the spring on the part it’s best if you just don’t unhook it but in washing it came unhooked so we’re gonna go ahead and one of our little retention screws back in the one at the back so it has more room to play because again we want to just have that on there loosely so that we can reattach the push rod mechanism there and you are done with the gearbox installation now let’s talk about the trigger so the PDR kit is going to include one of these nifty new 3d printed trigger replacement units what this does is it replaces the push rod mechanism with a microswitch trigger makes it very very nice trigger keeps the double action trigger but along with that you’re going to get your wire harness here which has two different switches a connector plug and then your connector for your FCU you will also get a little bag that has your screws some washers and a few little nuts so let’s go ahead and put this together I’m gonna put two of my nuts here in these little slots now see this part that sticks down that goes the back and then the trigger is going to sit just like that not the other way around go ahead and grab one of our one of our screws here highly recommend magnetizing your screwdriver no need to over tighten these we are attaching to plastic so we don’t want to damage the plastic by going nuts with a screwdriver that is your trigger switch now your selector switch your this is a two-stage trigger so it acts on the full trigger pull in full auto it’s going to get attached right like this you notice that the button is off if we look at the back of this trigger block the orange button is too the more to the right side of the switch and this has little retainers for the nuts that’s it on the back side you can hold it with your finger on these we need to put some washers too should work but we do provide an extra one just in case maybe your screw is a little on the long side or something we’re going to go one two there we go two of these little washers again no need to over tighten this just snug it down so there we go that’s probably the most tedious part of the whole process is just putting those on it’s really not too bad just take your time at small parts if you’re not used to working with small parts it can be a little tedious process so we got our trigger mechanism assembled now the extra to the extra two washers what we’re looking for is we don’t want the screws to come out past the end of this past this surface here they do they’ll run into something in the gun so we’re just checking that they’re there flush and here we’re good with two washers we should be in general but we provide a couple extra just in case all we’re going to do to install this trigger mechanism is to undo these two screws set that whole assembly aside is the two screws and this whole piece the whole trigger push rod just comes out you don’t need that there’s a little ball bearing they also don’t need that now we’re just going to set this in making sure that we the trigger lever there in front of the nub on the trigger that will activate it drop that right in put our two screws back in and there we go you can hear you have a nice quick micro switch and then if you pull it all the way it’s the second switch and that activates full auto a very clean very easy trigger pull this off well how’s our FCU and battery in the grip now we can just drop our gearbox back in and I forgot to mention earlier earlier it is a half inch drill bit on the body 5/16 or 3/8 won’t work on the gearbox when our body we want to hear that I said that wrong earlier we want to go ahead and re-engage the selector switch mechanism or the mag release mechanism there we go wiring comes up here plugs into our wire harness tuck under there just like the stock wiring and at that point really we’re all set all right so we’ve got this all put back together barrel and hop-up and I’ll just go back together like normal so let’s give it a shot see how it des semi and then fold for your pole do full real nice I love this gun this is one of my personal favorites I’m going to be doing another video here probably a little while showing you some of the other things we’ve done on this gun to improve the feeding and such with the the PDRC feed mechanism thanks for watching guys hope this was helpful and we will see you guys out on the field

Installation: Silverback SRS (Video)

Rich demonstrates how to install the BOLT M in the Silverback SRS.

Video transcript: what’s up guys this is Richie today on what’s the tech we’re gonna take a look at how to do the installation on the bolt m4 SRS let’s get started before we get started we’re gonna need to gather a couple tools so first of all we want to take get some gun staff or other silicon-based lubricant then we’re gonna want to get a drill with a three sixteenths inch drill bit approximately can be a little different size it’s not super critical we just need clearance for the air line and then next we’re gonna need either a dremel or a saw or something that you can cut a slot I here with Dremel is the easiest thing but you can use various things in a pinch so let’s go ahead and jump in and see what we have to do so as you can see we’ve already disassembled everything here we’re not going to go over how to disassemble the SRS in this video if there are plenty of videos showing how to do that in addition you’ll notice that the modifications have already been done so we’re just going to be talking about what those modifications were it’s pretty straightforward but as you can see we have the three butt pad plates here this is the first plate second plate and then the butt pad okay don’t have to do anything with that but these two here we have small small modifications – let’s start with the first plate first plate has the larger hole cut out in it and what we need to do is we need to cut a slot that’s approximately 3/16 wide and about one inch long from straight down from the center as you can see here what this is going to do is it’s going to make clearance for our airline to sit right like that the exact dimensions are not super critical but you want about no less than four millimeters wide again for you people working in millimeters or about 3/16 for those of you working inches and you want it about one inch to a little over one inch or 25 millimeters from the bottom edge of the hole down to the bottom of the slide easiest way to do that is with a dremel but you could also use a hacksaw or something like that if you need to to clear that material it’s just plastic so it’s easy to cut the next thing we’re going to need to do is the second plate we need to drill a hole approximately 3/16 of an inch right and what we’re going to use as a guide is the two braces on the back here we’re going to go right in the corner of the brace there again size is not super critical all we’re doing that is it allows us to disassemble the unit more easily once it’s installed so those are your modifications there and then the last thing that you’re going to need to do it’s going to be to take that same drill we’re going to need to drill a hole for our airline now that is going to go right in this location here you can simply drill straight through the wall all the way through now you could also if you wanted to cut a track sort of on the side of the wall here but I find it’s easier to simply drill a hole straight through and that’s it as far as modification so it’s pretty straight forward now let’s talk about the engine itself those of you that have seen our bolt m4 VSR this will look very familiar it shares a lot of hearts Center shaft is from the VSR bar ten engine as is the cylinder and the cylinder head actually is the same as the Ziller cylinder head that we use on the Stryker so a lot of common parts there now I what will look a little different is this front piston shaped piece here with an o-ring around the backside of it and then the airline adapter here is obviously a different geometry for this gun other than that all pretty familiar in order to do the installation we need everything completely torn down the all the spring and piston removed from the existing cylinder and we’re just going to need the existing cylinder here with the cylinder handle attached now with this gun instead of making a complete replacement cylinder head what we’ve opted to do is to make an insert that actually will fit inside the cylinder and just press up inside the cylinder there and sit flush against the cylinder head before we install it we’re going to want to get some of that lubricant and we’re gonna want to lubricate the large ring around the outside a little bit so make installation easier easier and then we’re gonna want to lubricate the shaft on the back portion here now we’re going to take this and put the shaft inside the opening on the front of the bolt and now we’re going to use the engine we’re going to seat that piston all the way flush up against the front of the cylinder and there you go it’s installed easy enough now we’re just gonna put everything in the gun first we’re going to reinstall the cylinder now we’re going to take the engine simply slide straight in airline it’s going to get rounded down through that hole that we just drilled it can be trimmed to any length that you want it now in order to install the plate where we’re going to do is we’re going to actually pull the the center shaft of the engine back a little bit so the airline alright so that the chef’s comes through the center and then we can install the plate and then push the airline into place next plate just snaps on and then your butt pad and you’re done now to remove the unit from the gun what we’re going to do is we’re going to first remove the butt pad that’s this normal now you remember that hole that we drill in the in the second plate that is going to let us push forward on the engine a bit push it out of the way so that we can then remove the plate you’re probably going to have to pull the trigger push forward and there you go now we can use the bolt again to push the engine back which will allow us to remove the last plate one more time reassembly plate slides over the air line is installed and then the last two plates just install normally so that’s it for the installation of the OEM SRS silverback I hope this has been helpful if you have any questions comments section below do our best to get back to you thanks for watching guys

Installation: V2 and V3 Gearboxes (Video)

Rich demonstrates how to install the REAPER Electromechanical in a V2 and V3 gearbox.

Video transcript: hey guys today I’m worth attack lubricant can we look at the brand-new Reaper the electromechanical version in particular is how to install it alright so the electro mechanical Reaper unlike traditional HPA systems that include a a wire harness and an MCU and all that all you need for the electromechanical is this very simple to wire wire harness that’s what’s included with your reverse cylinder for the electromechanical kit now one of the really nice things there’s a few things about the electromechanical design that we like reasons we went with the electromechanical instead of doing a pure mechanical or something like that now first reason is compatibility you can see I have two different gearboxes here I have a v2 gearbox and a v3 gearbox this is actually out of a brand because you’re utilizing the existing trigger contacts this system is compatible with a really really wide range of guns whether you use a traditional shuttle system or a microswitch trigger all sorts of different designs won’t work whether it’s a v3 trigger mechanism v2 mega trigger mechanism it all works you don’t have to worry about making it fit you know in in different gearbox types now it also maintains a hundred percent of the efficiency and performance of the full version with the FCU and now you don’t have full auto obviously but you don’t have take any hit on efficiency and a pure mechanical system use this air to pilot the system until you end up losing some air just piloting the valve the trigger response is also oftentimes not as consistent here you get the full consistency because it’s still being opened electronically so that’s why let’s get into the how this is really pretty straightforward you will need a a soldering iron and that’s about it other than that I’ll just all your normal tools for getting into the gearbox so let’s pull both these trigger boards out and look at how this is going to be set up you can see on both of these trigger boards there are two wires going in this is really just a switch on almost any aeg it works the same way this is just a simple on/off switch now that’s all we need for the electromechanical you have two wires going in just like on the g2 over here you have two wires going in and all we’re going to do is take the two wires two wire leads that come on the electromechanical wire harness and we’re going to just solder them in like that orientation doesn’t matter because you’re just closing the circuit the direction the electricity is flowing doesn’t matter we have two pads here on the v2 it was in wire in two and then you’ll just simply set it back in gearbox exactly how it was so let’s step over to the solder station and let’s go ahead and solder these in all right so we’re going to go ahead and do this here I’m going to do the v3 board first and we’re just going to desolder there we go these the leads come already pre tinned so we don’t need to tin them a little bit of flux is always a good idea though so we’re going to go ahead and take small pieces of heat shrink slide them over the leads we’ll be able to protect that once we get it soldered on we put a little bit of flux on the connections to make sure that we get a good solid solder joint oh there’s our three board all reduce hit that with a hairdryer or a heat gun if you happen to have one to tighten up your heat shrink now on the v2 board there’s also going to be two pads just you solder them first this pad is actually not very well soldered from the factory so I’m going to put a little extra tinting on it now we’re just going to again the wires are already pre tin so we’re just going to solder them in place and it doesn’t matter which wire goes to which pad there we go that’s your v2 electromechanical trigger installation now to actually install this wiring we’ll take a look at the v2 first just going to drop it in like you normally would and put in your standard screw for your to hold it in and reinstall your shuttle and this just plugs into your solenoid at that point you can run the wires out either back to the buffer tube into the grip whatever you prefer v3 it’s going to be much the same run our wires through going to plug our solenoid in so we can see where the wires need to sit tuck them up above here if we are going to be running the wires through the front then we would do it like that on the Brynn I believe we’re going to be able to run them out the back so we’re going to do that and the wires simply can sit here alright so this is what it looks like once you have the electromechanical installed into v3 you can see the wires come out up at the front here this is your battery wire and I do want to point out one thing when you’re heating up the heat shrink you want to as you heat it to bend it back in towards the gearbox on the stock with the stock switch the wires come out of the gearbox we need to come back into the gearbox to match up with the solenoid just plug this get it out of the way we’re going to run our wires through there what we’re going to do is just pop up the trigger mechanism back in place with the shuttle installed maybe a little snug but just kind of play with it figure out where it’s hanging up just pop in place I like that now we’re just going to take our retaining screw this is the stock screw that in if you didn’t do it when you put it together originally go ahead and put your spring on I was like to do that step separately I just find it easier than messing with the spring while you’re trying to get the trigger unit installed there we go now we can check that our wiring isn’t interfering with the movement of the trigger looks good alright guys so that’s the rundown of how you do the electromechanical installation like we mentioned it works in a really wide range of gun platforms so for instance 417 here has the electromechanical in it again just use a standard trigger switch really pretty straightforward to do great system send the automatic only for this setup and you can always upgrade to the other electronics later if you decide you want full auto thanks for watching if you have any questions leave them in the comment section below give us a follow give us a like give us a subscribe on YouTube and we will see you guys out on the field you

Installation: Ares Striker (Video)

Rich demonstrates how to install the BOLT M in the Ares Striker.

Video transcript: in today’s video we’re going to take a look at how to install the vault m4 striker now the bolt m4 striker is compatible with the s01e02 and ASR three platforms today we have an ASR one that we’re going to take a look at start by taking a look at what comes in the package this is the bolt M engine you’re going to have cylinder head with an o-ring around the back shaft your center shaft and then your cylinder put these together you want the hole in the back there lined up with the notch in the cylinder it doesn’t matter which way it’s symmetrical putting in either way the first step is going to be to disassemble your striker this won’t be covered here there are many videos showing how to do this it’s quite straightforward you can use the included tools to remove the trigger guard and then remove the stock from the receiver and remove the bolt out of the back of the receiver and dispose of all the internals as you see fit what we have left is the cylinder with the attached handle stock and the receiver let’s go ahead and install the cylinder now there are three slots cut in cylinder if you look at how it is how the cylinder sits in the gun the top has no slot we want to line up the hole with the notch there on the left side of the gun okay so this is the top we want to line it up there see the slide here you can’t see the hole on the right side next we’re going to just install the cylinder head tighten it down the allen key there you go our cylinders ready to go in order to route the air line stock you see here we have the included airline adapter we’ve already trimmed the air line to length in this case just for simplicity in the video but in order to route the air line we’re going to need me to make a couple small modifications to the stock first we’re going to need to drill a 3/16 two quarter inch hole in this location right here it’s in the back wall right there airline it’s going to come out the side of the engine there then get routed back through that hole it’s going to sit right like that okay so we need to drill a hole in that back wall again three sixteenths two quarter inch or four to six millimeters should be sufficient next you’re going to need to drill the same sized hole in the bottom of the cap here so that when the airline comes out in this area it can come right out the bottom if you prefer it’s more work but you can route the airline bat further back in the stock and have it exit anywhere along here if you like we’re not going to show how to do that in this video but it is possible requires a disassembly of the stock to route the airline the next thing we’re going to need to do is to cut a relief where the airline will fit between the stock and the receiver now this is easy to accomplish this is just polymer it can be you can cut with the dremel or even something like a round rasp which we have here works very easily and you want to cut just enough of a leaf of relief that the airline can slide in between the receiver and the stock there without too much resistance so we don’t want to be pinching the airline in that area now let’s go ahead and assemble everything the cylinder simply slides in the back and we pull down the trigger now you can see the the hole that was talking about earlier lines up with the front of the two holes on the side our airline fitting simply going to go through make sure you line it up on this side press it all the way in make sure it’s sitting firmly in place it should be just below the surface on this side and that’s it now we just have to put it back in the stock so reinstalling the stock we’re going to route the airline through the hole we’ve drilled put the stock in place make sure your airline sits in the relief that you cut and now it’s simply a matter of reinstalling the the trigger guard and the bolts holding the gun together as you normally would airline can further get routed through the grip cap you can install your push-to-connect fitting simply firmly press it onto the line and we’re ready to go so this has been the installation video for the Aries striker bolt em if you have any questions leave them in the comments section below

Installation: JG Bar10 (Video)

Rich demonstrates how to install the BOLT M in the JG Bar10.

Video Transcript: Hey guys this is Rich with Wolverine airsoft and today we’re going to take a look at how to do the installation on the brand new bolt from Wolverine airsoft so let’s jump right into it on today’s what the tech. OK so we got our bolt here and this is a demo of kind of what the production packaging will look like this is the bolt with cylinder as you can see bolt plus cylinder threads in the long packaging the boat without cylinder will come in a shorter packaging I’m just going to go ahead and unbox this and kind of show you a couple things first thing to point out is there’s this little insert and we packaged a little differently on the other packaging on this insert this is important important is a QR code here and there will also be a URL to register your product for warranty to be eligible for until you need to go and to sign up your product at this address ok don’t miss that this is something new we’re starting with the bolt and we’ll be doing this moving forward with other products as well so as soon as you open it right there up on the website you can scan the QR code with your smartphone and go right there to register it it just takes a minute inside the packaging we have a bunch of packages have a couple screws to hold on our trigger switch of our battery have our bolt with cylinder and we have our wire harness and our airline fitting that’s what’s in the packaging if you ordered the bolt without cylinder it’s going to look like this just won’t include the the cylinder we offer so for the demonstration of the installation today we’re going to be installing on a jg bar 10 the G spec model but they’re all pretty much the same so we’re going to do that installation first and we’re going to do that without the cylinder and then after we do the installation after we go through the installation we’re going to talk about some of the different brands instead of some of the idiosyncrasies between the different brands the the differences things you you might need to account for depending on what brand you’re installing in so let’s go ahead and get the gun up here so we got our gun up here disassembly is just like you normally would with these we’re going to go through this quickly not show all the details there’s plenty of detailed instructions on how to do this it’s just a very common gun all right so we got this disassembled there are two basic things that we need to do we need to install the trigger and we need to install the system inside the cylinder we’re gonna do the trigger first what I’m gonna do is just disassemble the trigger box and we are going to remove all the Sears out of this system which is happy days because they’re what always likes to break we’re out so you’re going to completely remove all of the Sears from this system so there’s four small screws and then you’ll need to unscrew the screw that holds on the safety lever all of your Sears spring assembly all we’re going to have left is our trigger this trigger spring here and then our two adjustment screws they’re all the Sears can get disposed stuff s can the bolt stop next step is going to be to attach the trigger switch through the trigger box I’m just going to go ahead and pull all the screws out and such so they don’t get lost while we work on the trigger box you know if i reassemble this take a look at where the trigger is going to sit this is our wiring this is your trigger switch and that little orange button gets hit the battery is connected to the solenoid and the solenoid it’s going to sit right there you can see the tab on the side of the trigger the safety tab now will engage the trigger switch so what I’m gonna do is I’m going to get the 1/16 drill bit that is included with the kit I’m just gonna mark a spot kind of find where the trigger wants to go I’m gonna hold it in place once it’s about where I want and I’m just gonna kind of spin the drillbit in the top hole pressing down til I get a little mark this position is not super critical because keep in mind once we put that screw in we can rotate the position of the switch to get the right amount of engagement but just need it in basically the right location get as close as you can to where you want it and then you can adjust it with the rotation afterwards now we have our two little screws and I’m going to take this drill bit now and I’m going to drill the hole all right before I drill the hole if you have a center punch this is nice use for a center punch it’s not absolutely necessary but it helps keep the hole where you want it helps the drill bit not walk so just punch that we’re going to go ahead and pull this off just keep shavings out of the trigger mechanism and drill the hole we’re going to try to keep the shavings as much as we can out of the other parts so as you drill preferably this would be done in a separate location from your parts I should have mentioned that earlier I’m doing it on camera so you can see the process there’s a hole and we can clean up those shavings here it’s a good time to mention that the system does have a built in filter element inside the air fitting but as with any pneumatic system keep it clean keep dirt debris metal shavings all that kind of stuff out of your systems and it’ll be a lot happier so let’s go ahead and grab our trigger box or screw this is a t6 driver start bit screw a self-tapping so there’s no need to tap the hole or anything just thread the screw in not going to put it in real tight just yet because I’m going to go ahead and reassemble it with the other half when I reassemble it I’m going to take this short lead and I’m going to put it up through the opening where the spring guide stop was previously you can go ahead and put it together like that make sure nothing’s pinched now I’m just going to check you can see my triggers and quite engaging the switch so I’m just going to rotate the switch a little bit till I’m getting done getting engagement then I’m going to go ahead and tighten it down a little more we should be good we do include a second screw if you want to put the second screw in you can we never bother with it because we’ve found that it’s just there’s nothing putting any pressure on the switch body itself to move so as long as you snug the one screw down there’s just really not a need for the second screw but we do include it in case you would like to do that now all I’m going to do is go ahead and put the remainder of the screws back into the trigger box and the safety lever on and at this point I can check once the safety lever is back on I can check that the safety is actually stopping the trigger before it hits the trigger switch so if I have it on you can see I’m not engaging the switch safety off I’m able to hit the switch just going to go ahead and reinstall the rest of the screws so with all the screws reinstalled we are pretty much done the hardest part of the installation which was just the wiring as you can tell it was not that difficult one thing I did want to mention was depending on how you have the switch positioned exactly this screw here you may want to loosen this up rotate the switch out of the way and install the screw and then reset the position on that so let’s go ahead and set that aside muscat jump into the cylinder the cylinder we’re just going to disassemble as per usual again there are instructions online if you need help with that we use into small allen wrench all the internals of the cylinder can be set aside we won’t be using them now we’ll take the bolt and we’re going to slide it inside the cylinder the airline hole needs to line up with the slot and we like to bend over the shortly wire lead there so that it slides in easily just like so we can go ahead and install the cylinder head again use the allen wrench to Snug it down don’t over tighten than that the threads on most of these cylinders are not terribly strong don’t over tighten it just so I get down enough that it’s not going to not going to move around so there it is installed inside the cylinder so we have our cylinder done we have our wiring done really all that’s left is routing the air line so rounding the airline we got our receiver back out here really we just basically need to drill one main hole and that is a hole in the receiver here the way this works is the airline fitting will go through the receiver and thread into the bolt itself like so with that being held in place by the receiver when you cycle the bolt all that you’re doing is sliding the cylinder around the stationary unit itself so what we need to do is we need to drill a hole in the receiver to allow the air line fitting to go through now on standard jg and tokyo marui vsr-10 systems there’s a really easy marker and that’s this moulding mark here we’re just going to drill our hole right in the middle of that well post a link in the description here for if you’re doing other rifles where this molding mark is not there how to measure where exactly you should put the airline fitting so let’s go ahead and and drill that hole we’re going to need a quarter inch drill bit again I’m going to go ahead and center punch just to keep us on target then you can go ahead and drill again we’re doing this all on video but if you’re doing this please do it in a location away from your system so that none of the shavings get get into the bolt itself so we got our hole drilled again I was using quarter inch drill bit keep in mind this is a quarter that the shaft on this fitting is a quarter inch so if you use a quarter inch drill bit you may find that it’s a little tight still we could force it through but all I’m going to do is I’m going to over drill it a little bit just kind of work the drill around a little bit to open the hole and there we see it fits in there nicely now all right with the hole for our airline drilled we’re really ready to just go ahead and put everything together we’re going to take the cylinder again check that the whole 3d air line fitting is lined up with the slot make sure that the wiring the little wire lead is inside the cylinder we don’t want it getting caught when we install it I line up my threaded hole for the airline fitting with the hole I just drilled put my airline fitting through thread it into place wiggling the cylinder around a little bit helps sometimes to make sure that you aren’t catching the edge of the cylinder on the lip of the airline fitting all righty now we just have to do pull the electronics through I’m going to use a small screwdriver or an o-ring pic or something like that pop the leads through now I’m going to take my trigger box I’m going to plug it in and this fitting is going to sit right where your Sears used to go you can see it right up in that area and then the trigger box will just attach as per usual and with that we really are pretty much installed want to mention a couple more things when you install the airline this will use a quarter inch wrench the airline will thread into that fitting we do put some thread Locker on the threads of this fitting before we ship it however if you assemble and disassemble this multiple times that will wear off a little bit of blue loctite something light while we do recommend on the threads of this piece because it is the stop when you’re cycling the bolt so too much wiggling and without a being held in place can cause it to work loose just install the airline take a quarter inch wrench or an adjustable wrench just tighten that down okay so got this all set up went ahead and put our trigger guard back on and we can I plugged in a battery to our wire harness just going to check that functions when you pull the trigger everything is doing what we could it could also air test it at this point only thing left to do is to figure out where we want the air line to exit the stock talked about a couple options they’re probably difficult to see on the camera but there’s an opening at the back of the stock from your trigger area back to the stock that’s where both our air line and our wire harness are going to run back through there into the stock we include a long length of air line with the unit so if you want you can run the air line back and sit at the back of the stock say behind the sling mount if you’d prefer you can make it exit at the base of the grip still a hole there or if you would like the easiest as far as routing is to just drill a hole right about here and have the air line just exit straight down and come out the front it’s really up to you you know different people are going to have different preferences as far as how they route the air line but those are some of the more common options as far as that goes alternatively if you are running this is the this is the barre tan same with the VSR if you’re running the co2 adapter and storm regulator inside the stock you don’t drill a hole at all you just run your air line back to the back we’re going to pop the cap off the stock here and that whole assembly just fits up inside there those are some different options on this one we plan to run the co2 in stock so we’re not going to drill a hole on this one but I’m going to go ahead and run the air line and the wiring through so you can see how it all goes back together first I’m going to feed the air line through the opening goes to the stock see it got coming out the back that one’s good disconnect the battery flip this around and this is gonna go right through the same opening get fed back both of those can go through no problem the only thing that is a little bit tricky about putting this back together see if I can show you on camera here is where these two go through there’s a tab on the back end of the trigger guard that fits into that opening both of those lines both the wiring and the air line they need to sit above that tab so I’m just going to work them up and over don’t you get that situated slide the tab into place as per usual generally just lightly lightly pull on the air line and the wire harness do not just yank on it just to make sure it’s not not bound up anywhere then the whole thing goes back together put our screws back in one thing I will mention on the bar 10 this front screw if you tighten it down too much it’ll make the mag release catch stick so if I hang it down more and see if I push it down it sticks so just loosen it up just enough that it pops back out the other thing you’ll note you may notice is that on some of these tightening or loosening the two screws will affect how freely the action slides you can see mount slides very nicely no resistance that’s just because there’s some play in between the receiver and the barrel and the hop-up unit how tight you tighten down the different screws affects how exactly they line up so if you’re noticing there’s a lot of drag on the bolt when you’re trying to cycle it check that other than that we are completely done you can see at the back I can plug in my battery no problem then check that everything’s working which it is and again at this point you could just run your airline out say through a hole here or in the grip up here if you like and you can trim your airline to whatever length you need and just use the push to connect fitting to attach to it battery gets stowed in there we will be installing the Wraith and co2 adapter and regulator and they will fit inside stock as well alright guys so that’s it for the basic installation again this is a jg bar 10 for the Wolverine airsoft bolt so let’s jump right into it on today’s what the tech you