WRAITH CO2 Stock Installation

For detailed instructions on installing the WRAITH CO2 Stock, see the Owner’s Manual (MTW Instructions only) or refer to one of the videos below.

Video transcript: hey guys this is rich with Wolverine airsoft and today on what the tech we’re going to look at how to install the Wraith co2 in your MTW so let’s jump right in so with the Wraith co2 the installation is now very straightforward any of you that have done one of the installations on an AEG now there’s a little bit involved you have to modify the receiver a few different ways with the MTW everything installs very simply very straightforward so we’ll go ahead and get started here we’re gonna remove but we’re gonna start by removing the the stock buffer tube so we need an Armorer’s wrench for the castle nut first we’re going to separate upper and lower receiver now we’re going to get the armours wrench and remove the castle nut we just have this one on here loosely to make it easier your should be tightened down all right now we’re just going to unthread the buffer tube once we turn it once you want to go ahead and remove your detent and detent spring so that you don’t lose those and we’re just going to unthread the buffer tube set that aside next we’re going to remove the cylinder from the receiver in this case we have a Reaper and this gun this is one of our shotguns the electrical contact thread the airline back through pop your front clip and everything will slide right out we set that aside as well okay so first step is going to be to remove the stock airline for what you’ll need a quarter inch wrench and set that aside now your Wraith will have come with a few pieces here we’ll need our hardpoint adaptor our barbed fitting and then our piece of tubing short piece of tubing with the barbed fitting on it so we’re gonna start by taking the tubing with the barbed fitting on it and threading that into the back of the engine all right like that tighten it down with your wrench next we’re going to take our barbed fitting and put it in the threaded hole on the hardpoint adapter again snug that down now these two are going to need to get pressed together and you’ll notice the since the fittings aren’t in the center you need to put them together with the right orientation it doesn’t need to be perfectly square because the tubing does have some flex in it but you want it so that the the hardpoint and the engine are lined up correctly so just gonna get it started kind of press it together and there you go so engines ready to go set that side now we’re going to need a couple things from our stock buffer tube we’ll need this whatever sling plate we’re using we have an a Magpul sling plate on here but you can use the stock one if that’s what you have on there and we will need our castle mat okay so those are the things that we’ll need from the stock buffer tube so the other things that we’re gonna need our Wraith assembly here buffer tube and the Wraith components themselves inside and then you’ll have your hard stop talk about this later on but the installation is quite straightforward your body pin back body pin came out go ahead and I’ll put it back in and align it so that the slot faces to the back of the gun so that when you drop your detent and your spring in it lines up with that slot on the pin now we’re going to take our castle nut thread our castle nut on I threaded a good ways on there take our sling plate slide it on now we’re gonna thread it together the only thing you’re gonna have to watch is that you keep this sling plate sort of held up and out of the way so it doesn’t run into the spring it’s sticking out the back there we’re gonna thread this in until we are flush or just short of flush with the inside surface of the lower receiver here now anytime you are reassembling sling plate whether you’re on race or whether it’s a standard buffer tube you need to make sure that your spring is getting pushed straight in here spring right here that it doesn’t get bent over so we’re just gonna kind of work the sling plate in there until the sling plate sits all the way flush and that spring is held down in the body of the gun what you don’t want to do because you’ll end up you’ll end up damaging the spring is you don’t want to just thread this straight down without paying any attention you can thread it down like we’re doing here but you need to watch that spring and make sure it doesn’t poke out to the side at any point that it goes all the way nicely inside the lower receiver all right there we go now we’re gonna use our armours wrench again and tighten that down that is really it as far as the installation itself you will notice that if you’re going to put the right co2 on you need to move the wiring for the battery to a different location now we’re not going to show how to replace a grip in this video that will be a separate video but what we recommend is putting on a grip with a base plate like we have here is our Magpul grip which has a snap-on plate that way the battery will stay securely up inside there and then you can just run the wiring through the hole in the grip where our airline would normally with a stock setup and your battery is gonna be in your grip and your air supply is in the buffer tube we can go ahead and reassemble our upper reassembly of the upper is very similar to normal but it is a little bit more cumbersome just because of the fitting back here so what we’re gonna do is we’re gonna slide it in I’m gonna get our wiring through on the left side of the air line here and then we’re just gonna have to kind of push this out of the way a little bit so that we can get our our wiring plugged in here again the air line is very tough there so you don’t really have to worry about damaging it too much just push it out of the way until you can get your electronics plugged in there we go see not too bad slide it all the way in snap our clip in place and then we can snap the contact yoke back in place all right final step is just going to be assembling upper and lower receiver together these should come from the factory with a little bit of lubricant put on the hardpoint but if it seems dry I would advise adding a little bit more or if you’ve just disassembled it a number of times and the lubricant has kind of gotten rubbed off just add a small amount of lubricant to the hardpoint so that it slides into the o-ring easily without any binding when we are assembling this what we’re going to do at a slight angle you don’t want a sharp angle but a slight angle just gently set the two together right like that and it should slide back in and you’ll be able to engage your body pins when you’re disassembling this before you disassemble the upper and lower receiver always make sure the system is depressurized you don’t want to disassemble it pressurized otherwise it’s gonna push the receiver out then you’re gonna I’m gonna run into issues again when we’re disassembling we’re gonna pop the back body pin first what we always do just in case there’s it’s causing any pressure on the front buddy pin tip it up just slightly we don’t want to just rip it up at this point just tip it up just slightly slide it forward gently and out okay all right like that at this point tuning the Wraiths setting the engagement is all normal we’re not going to cover that in this video we have other videos that cover that that we will link to in the description below the only other thing we’re going to cover here is your hard stock on the original Wraith for aeg we had a small screw that you could set in different positions as a hard stop to set the maximum extension of the stock this is so that when you’re collapsing and extending the stock quickly you don’t have to readjust the position you can just set it where the hard stop where you want and just pull it all the way out okay what we’ve upgraded to here is a drop-in hard stop so this can be moved to any position to set high and this stock is only going to be able to travel back so far so I like it here personally so you’re just going to set it there and then once you install the stock it won’t be retained and won’t be able to go anywhere and you can see that’s our maximum extension then on the stock it won’t go any further and then you can flaps it down change the co2 and extend it back out so as you can see very quick and easy installation if you have any questions be sure to leave us a comment in the comments below or shoot us an email at tech at Wolverine airsoft comm if you need technical support as always we thank you for your support and we will see you guys out on the field you what’s the deck hey guys today on with the tech we’re going to be taking a look at the new Wolverine airsoft Wraith co2 stock we’re going to take a take a look at the installation and also take a look at how to install the dual air sourcing kit that we’re going to be offering so let’s jump right into it so today we’re going to take a look at how to do the Wraith installation on this gun we have a Gen 2 Inferno and we’re also going to take a look at how to install the Doyle error sourcing kit now you might notice there’s no air line here that’s because the race is already installed in this gun the way we’re going to run this video is we are going to tear it down go through that real quickly we’re going to show you what modifications were made and how you go about making them and then we’re going to go ahead and install the little arrow sourcing kit and put it all back together so let’s get started alright so we got this all torn down you can see it tore down pretty much like standard m4 no real differences there there are basically three things we need to do in order to make the raid stock fit the first is to trim off a little bit on the back of the gearbox here generally we want to remove about 7 to 8 millimeters of material off the back edge of the gearbox so before we get started I want to talk about a few tools that you’re going to want to collect before you before you go first is the tool that you’re going to use to make a couple of cuts one is to trim the back edge to the gearbox the other is to trim the stud on the back of the or what we call the tail piece on the back of the receiver there’s a few tools you can use for this you can use a hacksaw it’s a little bit slow and tedious but can be done you can use a dremel with a cut-off wheel like this here that will definitely work our favorite for these cuts because they are just straight cuts and easy to access is an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel this will do each of the two cuts in about 10 to 15 seconds so you need a cutting tool you’re also going to need a drill with a 3/8 or a 10 millimeter drill bit either one will work 3/8 or 10 millimeter but if you’re in the u.s. you’ll probably have an easier time finding a 3/8 if you’re overseas a 10 millimeter is going to be easier to come by other than that you’re basically just going to need your standard tools for disassembling your gun let’s go ahead and take the race stock off and take a look at how we modified the receiver oh and I forgot to mention you’re also going to want either a 1/2 inch wrench or better yet a 1/2 inch socket to get the back off we’re going to use the 1/2 inch wrench to loosen up the nut at the back here this is generally going to be a lot easier if you have already loosened the castle nut here because the castle nut tension to the whole thing together and you’ll end up putting a lot of torque on that it might make it difficult to get off so go ahead and loosen the castle nut off first using standard Armorer’s wrench we’re just going to remove this nut from the inside that point the whole thing will come apart and here you see these are the these are the parts that you’re going to get with your rate co2 stocks you’re going to get the entire buffer tube which includes the co2 adapter section here it includes the buffer tube itself castle nut sling plate and this is nut you’re also going to get a couple of allen wrenches one is going to be for the pressure adjustment here and the other is going to be for your two screws on the bottom side here and we’ll address what those do in a separate video about setting up and tuning the Wraiths a few other things you might want to look think about picking up before you get started on the job instead of soft jaws for your vise we highly recommend having a vise to hold the receiver in the gearbox in while you’re cutting them it will make your modifications much more precise if what you’re trying to cut is not moving around and these will prevent device from damaging your your part the other is a set of calipers either standard or English won’t work we will try to give all the dimensions in both so that you have an idea what you’re doing so there are two basic things that we need to do one is to modify the receiver the other is to modify the gearbox on the receiver we want to shorten the tailpiece here there are different these are different lengths depending on the brand that you have but what we want is we want approximately 3/16 of an inch off the back surface of the receiver here or if you’re working in metric about four and a half millimeters off the back surface here so to modify the receiver what we’re going to do is we’re going to set our calipers to four and a half millimeters and what we’re going to do is we’re going to use the backside of the calipers here and run it along detail piece of the receiver here and you’re going to scribe a line using the sharp point on the calipers there and that line is what’s going to mark and tell you where you need to make your cut so let’s set that aside and then we’ll mark the gearbox the same way we’re going to set it to right about seven millimeters and we’re going to scribe a line up tracking this edge along with the backside of the gearbox and just mark where you want to cut doesn’t have to be exactly at 7 to 7 millimeter 7 to 8 millimeters she’s perfectly fine it’s not really critical you’re going to come in sort of through the middle of the screw at the back of the gearbox on most gearboxes with that marked you can then step over to your cutting station which obviously we’ve already done the cuts here but you can cut along those lines with whatever method you like for the gearbox we highly recommend putting all the screws back in hold it together in the vise with your soft jaws hold it right about like that and make your cut get an angle grinder we’ll do that in about 10 to 15 seconds you’re going to do exactly the same thing with your receiver again we’re going to put the receiver in the soft jaws and we’re going to go ahead and make our cut with whatever tool we’ve chosen that done there’s only one final step and that is the hole at the back of the gearbox here needs to be enlarged comes at about five and a half millimeters five and a half to six millimeters depending on the brand and we need to drill it out to three eighths of an inch this is where our drill comes in if you’re using a 3/8 of an inch drill bit you’re probably going to want to run girl made through a few times to open up to the pole a little on the loose side of 3/8 the 10 millimeter will open is a little larger than 3/8 so it’ll open it up a little more anyway we’re putting a 3/8 in inch bolt through that hole so it needs to be just a hair over 3/8 so if you just kind of run the drill bit through a few times it will loosen it up plenty to to make that fit with that done you can see our hole there all the modifications to the gun itself are done so let’s go ahead and talk about what we do with the airline so your Gen 2 Inferno is going to come with an airline that looks something like this the Wraith will include a little piece of airline and a fitting like this this is a good time to mention that the fitting on the back of the unit’s did change between the Gen 1 Inferno which uses the same fitting as the SM original SP and the Hydra and the gen 2 Inferno which uses a smaller fitting for the time being we’re going to include both fittings with the kit and you can press your piece of airline here on to whichever Barb you you need eventually we’re going to switch over to just including the gen 2 fitting and if you need the Gen 1 fitting you’ll want to get in touch with us so that we can provide that for you or contact your local retailer and they can order it from us so to swap out the airline you can take a quarter inch wrench this one’s already loose I’m just going to unscrew it quarter inch wrench take the airline off put the new piece of airline on use your quarter inch wrench again and just snug it down you don’t want to over tighten it there doesn’t need to be a lot of torque on it that point your airline is swamped you can see it has this reinforcement on it that helps prevent the airline from buckling when it’s installed in in the system because there’s pressure here and there’s no retention on the fitting that this slides into so that’s going to be our airline swap let’s talk about electronics for a minute and you can see in this one we have our Spartan Edition that has the FCU inside the gun and all we have coming out is the battery and this is really convenient because obviously with this Wraith co2 stock you’re not going to be able to put your electronics in the buffer tube and the battery fits really conveniently in grip this becomes especially relevant when we’re talking about using the dual air sourcing kit because now we’re going to have an air line running through our grip while you can squeeze in the FCU and the battery into the grip with the air line in the fitting it is really tight and it’s it’s not easy to do and there’s probably some risk of accidentally damaging the electronics while you’re doing it the alternative would be to run the electronics upfront if you have a PEC box or a traditional handguard that will fit the electronics upfront if you want to do that you generally are going to want to remove the barrel run the wiring through put the barrel back on and that can that can be made to work as well we also have put it in a vertical grip I’ll show you an example of that this is the MFT vertical grip and it has the battery in wire wire harness and FCU all up inside there if you’re going to do this though or possibly a PEC box you’re probably going to want the 18 inch wire harness so that you can disassemble the gun and separate the upper and lower receiver without having to completely remove the gearbox and the wiring and all that kind of stuff so at this point if we’re going to just reinstall the right stock without the air splitter we just reassemble everything so we’re going to go ahead and disassemble the gearbox here and we’re going to install the dual air sourcing kit what that lets us do is it lets us run either the right co2 stock or we can seamlessly transition over to external air is regulated external air not unregulated you also probably could use this with the in grip regulator if you wanted to use unregulated external air or co2 but we haven’t tested that yet pretty sure it would fit but I’m not going to test that one yet so let’s talk about what is included with the kit in your kit here you’re going to have a length of tubing this is six millimeter all your thing tubing you have this little key assembly that has a check valve three fittings it’s going to sit right here and then you’re going to have this guy this is a new version of our grip connect this is a filtered grip connect like our filtered grip line it’s a two-piece assembly that has a filter inside it to help keep dirt and debris out of your system so this is going to be our grip connect your tee fitting and then we have some air line to connect everything together let’s go ahead and pull the unit out of the gear box we are going to need to trim down this length of tubing so we can stick the fitting in the middle here there’s a barbed fitting inside the end here and you want enough length there so we want to trim it right about there well measure that that should be right about 25 26 millimeters or right about an inch that should be pretty good right there so again going to lock my calipers I’m just going to use that to mark the tubing there where we want to cut there’s still a layer of the reinforcement on there we’ve removed that if we want but it’s not really going to hurt anything so we’re just going to leave it on there and we’re going to press these together it does not matter the orientation here if you do disassemble this however notice that there’s an arrow on the body and that the error needs to go towards the tee all right because that’s the direction of flow the check valve time allows flow in one direction all right so we just press that on there not too difficult and we want to press it as far as we can on up to the shoulder there and we can see this is going to fit inside there now some of you that have reinforced gearboxes this is going to be more unproblematic this is a vfc gearbox it’s wide open there’s no problem if you have a heavily reinforced gearbox you’re going to have to make some space here in order if you want to install this kit there are quite a few brands though that are wide open the VFC is thatwe believe GMP or gearboxes are also pretty much wide open there’s several brands out there that don’t have a lot of reinforcements and they definitely are the easiest ones to do this with now I’m going to trim off about a quarter inch of the air line off the other half that I cut off of the stock there and that’s just going to allow for the thickness here a quarter to three eighths of an inch should be fine it’s not going to be super critical and now I’m going to install that on the barb on the opposite side before we do that I’m going to pull off that extra piece of heat shrink all righty so there we go so we’ve got two of our Barb’s attached for our T’s you do want to make sure that you’re not just pushing this leaving up here if it makes you feel better just trim that all the way off a so you can see you know that’s not sliding basically we just want to make sure that’s pushed all the way up onto the barb the tubing itself on is on the barb not just the dis leaving here has slid up to overtop now we are going to take our length of tubing it came with our dual air sourcing kit we’re going to attach it down here voila now I can just reassemble the gear box alright so let’s go ahead and look at how to install the fitting itself in the grip baseplate in the case of dis gun which is an elite force for CRS the threads on the fitting just match the threads on the baseplate there are different threads used in the industry though so you’re gonna have to check on your gun to see whether they fit if they fit you just thread it in and you can tighten them down if the threads don’t fit your baseplate then you’re going to want to use the nut that comes with the kit and you’re going to want to drill a 3/8 hole in the center of the base plate through the existing hole and we’re going to want to thread that on and lock it down this case it’s really not necessary because it cracks directly into the baseplate once I have it installed on my baseplate I want to get a rough idea how far above the grip the hose needs to come down now you can see I’m measuring from right about in the center of the grip right along the line there up to where the barb needs to come down the lines flexible and you can put again push up into the grip a bit when we’re putting this all together but we want a rough idea so I’ve got right about 25 millimeters above the grip that the fitting here extends so write that number down remember it and we’ll come back to that later go ahead and put the brace back on the receiver first thing you’re going to want to do is you’re going to want to find the hole in this piece see as I rotate this piece I don’t know whether you’ll be able to pick that up on the camera but there’s a there’s a blind hole in the piece inside that lines up with the hole on the outside here and what we want to do is we can use the small allen wrench that comes with the rate to hold this piece in place while we assemble it together so let’s go ahead and do that all right so with the wrench in there holding it in place before I do that we want to get our sling plate on this is reversible for right or left-handed put it on slide it through you can see our threads extend on the inside of the receiver we’re going to take that nut and go ahead and thread that on notice I still have the wrench in the hole here that’s to keep this stud from rotating as I as I try to thread the nut on to it here you can use your wrench if you want to Snug this down it’s not really critical that that get real tight because the once we tighten down the castle nut here it’s going to put tension on everything and hold it all together so we’re going to go ahead and tighten the castle nut down using a standard Armorer’s wrench if you don’t have an Armorer’s wrench first of all I highly suggest spending fifty dollars and getting one they’re a very handy tool if you’re going to be working on guns if you don’t you can pack it kind of like I’m going to do here and use a punch and a hammer don’t overdo this but you can tap it down and snug it up and that should be good so we can go ahead and put the gearbox back in the lower receiver in this case all the wiring is going to go in the grip as well as the airline we’re just going to go ahead and put it all in notice I am going to tilt the gearbox back slide the airline in and then I’m able to tilt it forward it’s different than how you normally put together a gearbox but because we modified the back end gearbox we’re able to do that from here on out it’s just normal assembly if you’re doing the Wraiths by itself and we’re going to switch back over and we’re going to take a look at how to do the airline for the dual air sourcing okay so we got all this back together put our wraith co2 stock on and we have our wiring and our air line coming out in gearbox so really the last thing to do is to trim the line and attach this this fitting so what we’re going to want to do in order to do that we’re going to want to take our grip generally this works best if you’re doing this if you put the wiring through first and then the air line nice thing about this air line is you can’t kink it and damage it so keep the air line held straight so it doesn’t get pinched and go ahead and slide that on up there okay now you remember earlier we were measuring from the bottom of the grip what I’m going to do is I’m going to trim this about flush with the bottom of the grip make sure I don’t kill my wiring while I’m at it which announced about flush with the bottom of the grip and go ahead and pull the grip back off and now you can go ahead and measure my 25 millimeters was what I was about what I was at when you’re doing this to get started you might want to you will want to cut it a little on the long side you can always remove a little bit more if you cut it too long all right so we have drilled our hole here for our fitting we used two 3/8 drill head to work it around a good bit to open it up it’s a little bigger than 3/8 10 millimeter worked easier but you can make it work with three it’s like we did just give it a little extra love for you guys that don’t want to go out and find a 10 millimeter drill bit this point we’re going to separate the two halves this is where the filter is down inside there and this half it’s going to get pushed on to the barbed fitting here all right so there are a few steps we want to do to make getting this all together easier first is I want to open up a pathway between the main opening and the side opening the reason for that is this guy this fitting has to fit through the main opening off the wires are there that’s going to be really tough so I’m going to do it you could you can do this just with a box cutter be careful or you can do what I’m going to do is I’m just going to take a small carbide bit on the dremel and I’m just going to notch it right across so we’re going to step across and do that here in just a second alright so we got our little notch here we’re going to run the wiring through and then we’re just going to set it use that not to slide it over to the side and we’re going to run the fitting through put it all back together and now we’re going to screw the two halves of the fin back together which you’re going to really want a 5/16 wrench so you can grab onto that fitting down inside the grip a little bit your battery plugged in and this is where you can see if you are doing both the battery and an FC you probably would fit but it is going to be really tight up inside there baseplate can go back on thread the retaining nut down and we’re going to go ahead grab our screws all right there she is we can put in an empty cartridge which is this already has one we’ll go ahead and plug in air anytime you’re using external areas you want an empty cartridge in this right stock and we’re going to go ahead and put a co2 cartridge in she’s good hey guys this is Rach and today on what the tax we’re gonna be taking a look at the rates 32 gram edition so there are already installation videos going over how to install the Ray co2 stock on both an AEG and on the empty W so we’re not going to cover the details of the installation in the stock itself all of that is exactly the same as it would be for the 12 gram version instead what we’re going to talk about today is the parts that are specific to 233 gram Edition and how they’ve swapped between the two so first let’s take a look at what comes in the package there are three different versions that we’re selling of the 33 gram stock one is the full stock which you have here this is the MTW version we also have an AEG version next you’re going to have the 33 gram adapter now this is the 33 gram adapter and expansion chamber set up so that it can be plugged into any standard regulator it’s a standalone unit here it’s great for a lightweight kit where you don’t need to fire a whole lot of shots perfect for a sniper or a DMR something like that next we have the 33 gram conversion kit and that’s the floor guy here these are the parts that you need to swap over from a an existing 12 gram stock to the 33 grams stock along with the parts themselves you will get a tool kit that will match the version that you got and a nohrin kit that will also match the version of the SystemVue harder so let’s start with the smallest system just the 33 gram conversion kit we’re going to take that apart show you what it looks like inside and then we’ll work up to the complete systems so in your tool kit you will have some Allen wrenches a little spanner wrench here this spanner wrench works to install and uninstall the parts of the 33 gram adapter now if you’re needing to disassemble this unit here the the conversion kit portion then you’re also going to want either an 18 millimeter wrench or just an adjustable wrench here for use with the flats on the side and you’ll notice we’ve already removed the o-ring that sits in the groove here you’ll want to do that before you try to put a wrench on it in addition the parts are locked itíd together so a little bit of heat might not go in this in order to break these free to remove the inner portion of the adapter from the outer portion we’re going to use the flat end here it’s going to sit in the notches here and we’re just going to unscrew it if you want to get a little bit better leverage you can use a tool through the middle to get a little bit leverage turning on the on the spanner wrench there so if we uh this will have her inner threaded portion which is steel so the threads will hold up and then if we not tap out the inside we have our exterior we have our puncture pin this is the same puncture pin is in the 12 grand version with the o-ring on one by five millimeter ring on the back and then we’ll have a seal now notice that this seal is not the same between the 12 grand version in the 33 grams they’re different outer diameter so to assemble this we’re just going to install the 1 by 5 millimeter a ring on the back of the puncture pin we’re going to drop that in place make sure it seats correctly with the pointy side up then we’re gonna drop the seal on top and again make sure that it seats down in there correctly we’re gonna slide this back together now before we do this if you’re doing this you’re going to want to put some some blue loctite or or similar on there because we don’t want these unthreading well while it’s in use so again we’re going to tighten this down put it all the way down get our wrench to hold on to the outer portion and then we’re going to tighten the two halves together you should feel it stop and about as tight as you can reasonably get it just by hand on the tool as about as tight as we want Loctite those two pieces together before you do it next we’re going to need our ninety durometer no ring for the outside of this which we can install and there we go our conversion kit is ready to go now let’s take a look at how to convert an existing 12 gram adapter or existing 12 gram stock to 33 grams so we’re gonna use the adapter here just because it’s easier to work with but the process would be exactly the same if you’re using the 12 gram stock so first we’re going to unthread the 12 gram adapter portion through these two pieces here and your cap your 12 gram holder next we’re going to remove the spring and the puncture pin piston assembly set those aside we don’t need any of those for this now all we’re going to do is we’re going to take our 33 m3 gram conversion kit put a little lock tight on these threads and we’re going to use the spanner side of our wrench we’re going to thread it together and this should thread all the way down until it bottoms out you should feel it bottomed out against the baffle inside it make it a little tight but it’s gonna come to a complete stop right there again lock tight those threads and there it is this is now a 33 gram adapter so lastly we’re gonna go over the 33 ram co2 stock and talk about it a little bit converting a 12 gram to a 33 gram it’s essentially exactly the same as doing the as what we already showed with the the adapter but we’re gonna go ahead and disassemble parts out of the stock so we can see how that works you can use the included allen key to unthread the screw at the front and then the easiest way to do this is just to thread in a cartridge a little way an empty cartridge I recommend and pull out the interior parts so you can see this is just your storm regulator your adjustment screw right here and then your 33 gram conversion kit parts right here maintenance of this is going to be exactly like the 12 gram version or any other storm regulator you can remove three screws on the side you’re going to be able to separate the regulator and service all the internal parts you can check out our storm maintenance guide if you have questions on how to do that reinstallation of the components again we’re going to use an empty cartridge thread it in and we’re going to line up the adjustment screw with the hole on the top here it’s gonna line up with the second hole right here the adjustment screw will and then when we flip it over our threads should be lined up with this hole on the bottom you can tighten that down yeah if you’re using an older version of the stock make sure that the screw head sits all the way below the surface to ensure that it’s properly threaded into the the storm regulator inside and there you go so I’ll just mention one more thing in closing if you have one of the original Wraith 12 gram stocks there is actually a separate expansion chamber and reg base that are threaded together now I recommend if you have a stock that is like that you put a little bit of Loctite on these threads as well because you don’t want them backing out either as you’re changing the cartridge the newer version and what most of the rate of co2 stocks on the market have is a one-piece reg base and expansion chamber and it doesn’t unthread so you don’t have to worry about that in that case as far as using this system whether it’s the 33 grams stock or whether it’s the standalone adapter the processor quite simple there’s no setting of the depth like there’s with the 12 gram system or anything like that all you’re going to do is take the cartridge thread it in and tighten it all the way down until it seals so it’ll puncture and you need to tighten it a little bit further just to make sure if all these seals and that’s it from there you’re going to set your pressure with your regulator whether that’s a standalone regulator with the adapter or the regulator on your co2 stock built into the buffer tube it is generally recommended to fully empty the co2 cartridge before you change it or at least mostly if you oh if you change the cartridge with a lot of co2 left in it you’re going to be blowing a lot of liquid co2 past the seals which can cause drying out expanding freezing things like that you don’t really want the seals in the system are designed to be quite robust but you can still damage them if you freeze them and cause them to expand and then install the new cartridge on top of them it can cause problems so it’s generally recommended to empty the cartridges at least as much as possible we realized during game plays on them stuff’s gonna happen and that’s why the seals are made to be replaceable if it comes to that so that’s it for the technical overview video on 33 grams rate co2 stock I hope this was helpful if you guys guys have any comments or questions leave them down below give us a like subscribe we’ll see you guys have them feel