WRAITH X Installation and Maintenance (Video)

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Installing the WRAITH X in an MTW is easy! Follow along with Glenn as he goes over MTW installation and general maintenance!

Take your AEG conversion to the next level! Garrett breaks down an M4 AEG with an INFERNO and installs a WRAITH X.

For more information, refer to the WRAITH X Owner’s Manual!

what’s up guys I’m Glenn and this is the new Ray thanks today we’re going to go from mtw installation as well as basic maintenance on this episode of what the tech [Music] before we get started if you haven’t checked out The Wraith X technical overview video go check it out for more in-depth look at the product features you’ll find that linked down below to get started we’re just going to take the mtw and throw it on a vice block don’t worry if you don’t have one you can do it without it it just makes it a lot easier next we’re going to go ahead and remove the body pins now we’re going to go ahead and remove the stock from the buffer tube and then you’re going to need a standard armors wrench to remove the castle nut if you don’t have one don’t worry you can go ahead and do it with a punch then you’ll just want to slide the sling plate back carefully on some of the older mtws there’s a spring down here that you want to be sure not to lose so be careful when you unscrew it and you might want to go ahead and remove your detent spring and set it aside just so you don’t lose it next we’re just going to install The Wraith stock so you want to take your electronics and just tuck them down there into the grip to get them nice and out of the way now we’ll just take The Wraith x stock thread on the castle nut then we’ll take the sling plate and install it like so now we’ll just take the whole assembly insert it into the back of the receiver you want to make sure not to screw your stock past this face of your receiver if it extends too far just back it off one turn and you’ll be fine at this point you’ll just reinstall your spring [Music] line back up the stock and then hold down the sling plate just finger tighten the castle nut right down onto the back foot and just snug it back down and that’s it for the lower receiver the first thing we’re going to want to do on the upper is take our engine to do that we’ll just want to lift out the contact yoke and just carefully unplug it from the back of the engine now we’ll go ahead and Tuck the airline down through the back of the receiver then we’ll just take a tool and lift out the feed tube next we can slide your engine right out the back for this next part you’ll want to be sure you’re in a clean environment so you don’t introduce any fog to your system but you’ll take a quarter inch wrench loosen up your airline just unthread that from the back of the valve housing then you’ll take your included mini Airline just thread that right into the back then you can take your quarter inch wrench again and just gently snug that down it doesn’t have to be too tight next you’ll take the Barb that’s also included with your stock thread it into the bag of the airline adapter once again take the quarter inch wrench and just snug it down then you’ll take this whole assembly hold on to it pretty firmly take the airline that’s sticking out the back of the engine and with the two pieces aligned like this you’ll just firmly press and wiggle the two pieces until they go all the way together you’ll just want to make sure that the shoulder on the back of your fitting goes up flush with the tubing now we’ll go ahead and put everything back together you’re going to take your engine with the airline oriented up foreign then you’ll take your wiring harness slide it through then you can bend your airline out of the way and just plug the wiring harness right into the back of the solenoid at which point you can slide your engine back up into the receiver next we’ll slide the engine up until the groove lines up with the notches on each side and just hold it in place at the back and you can snap your feed tube right back in place and then once you make sure that your airline is centered between the two sides of the receiver you can just take your contact yoke and press it right back in one thing that’s worth mentioning before we continue is that if you find yourself wanting to run a traditional tank and Airline setup for a certain event all you need to do is swap back over the airline you can keep the whole rest of the wraith X attached to your lower receiver and just use it for a buffer tube until you want to switch back and use your wraith X for your air source next we’ll go ahead and put the upper receiver back onto the lower receiver first make sure your body pins are pulled out and then you’ll just want to take the airline adapter and angle the whole receiver back just a little bit to get that down into place don’t force it shouldn’t take too much you want to be sure that the springs on the board don’t get hung up on the screws on the contact yoke when you slide it back together and then just pop your body pins back into place in your kit you’ll find an included little base plate with an o-ring on it they’ll simply push into the bottom of the grip and that way you can run your battery and your electronics just in your grip right there lastly you’ll want to take your stock and slide it onto the buffer tube and that is a completed wraith x installation on the mtw get started let’s talk about the regulator portion of The Wraith x stock the regulator on here is the exact same technology as the CAT5 storm regulator in fact the internals are exactly the same it’s just a new cap to ensure the best long-term performance of your wraith X you’re going to want to take some silken based lubricant and spray it in the hole that will be found on one of the four flats of your regulator cap and you’ll just want to put a spray with the lubricant into the hole every few uses or before long-term storage to adjust the pressure on your CAT5 regulator you’ll just want to take the included 330 seconds hex key and to turn the pressure up just rotate it clockwise and to turn the pressure down simply rotate it counterclockwise for more information on the Storm CAT5 regulator see either the video dedicated to it or the owner’s manual for the CAT5 both linked down below next we’re going to go ahead and take a look at the internals of your wraith stock to do that you’re going to want to take the included two millimeter hex key loosen the screw on the front of your buffer tube then simply unscrew the CAT5 regulator from the buffer tube and unscrew the expansion chamber from the bottom of the regulator the raythex is designed to give you great performance for a very long time so you hopefully will never have to do this but in the off chance that you start to develop a leak around the CO2 cartridge here’s how you’re going to replace your seal there’s a seal up inside here behind the threads and to service it you’ll just want to take either an adjustable wrench or a 18-millimeter wrench put it on the flats of the expansion chamber and then take a 15 millimeter socket and back out the screw that clamps it all together next we’re just going to take an O-ring pick and gently lift the old seal out and then place the new seal that’s included with your wraith X right around the puncture pin next to reassemble it you’ll just take the threaded ring be careful to make sure that your seal stays on Center and then you’ll take the wrench socket and just hand tighten it back together you don’t need to over torque it you want to be careful because tightening it too much can cause damage to your system while we have this apart from maintenance we can go ahead and inspect the O-ring around the top end of the expansion chamber for damage and if you see that it’s damaged you can go ahead and replace it with the included o15 o-ring that is in your pouring kit next you’ll just want to take a little bit of silicone-based lubricant put it around the O-ring there and then you can go ahead and screw it all back together put the expansion chamber into the regulator and then install the regulator back into the buffer tube the buffer tube has all four of these slots all the way around it and when you reinstall this you want to make sure that one of them lines up straight up and down with the saw on the bottom of the buffer tube so now you’ll take your two millimeter hex key and you can snug this screw down pretty good if you found this video helpful don’t forget to drop a like and go check out the channel for other great videos just like this one thanks for watching and we’ll see you out in the field