REAPER M Maintenance (Video)

For instruction for disassembling and maintaining your REAPER M, please see the Owner’s Manual and/or watch a complete breakdown of the engine in this video.

Video transcript: what’s up guys today we’re gonna take a look at the mechanical Reaper in MTW so to get started this is a mechanical version of our Reaper systems all of the mechanical Reapers we are shipping come with the Gentoo Reaper technology if you haven’t seen the Gentoo Reaper technical overview video check the link in the description below so let’s go ahead and jump into this we’re gonna go ahead and pump both body pins pull upper and lower apart now starting with a little lower well immediately notice that has a different trigger this is a cnc aluminum trigger assembly has a little we call the elbow link up here this is a completely different trigger mechanism than the electrical guns there’s no electronics inside you just have to just have this simple trigger mechanism so if we pop that out we’re gonna use one point five millimeter allen key to loosen the setscrew trigger pin out uses the same trigger pin and here is our trigger assembly quickly that there’s a little spring there this is the set screw that holds the trigger on to the trigger pin when it’s installed in the lower we also notice that we’ve put a pin in the front here this is held in with a hairpin clip right here and the spring to keep it in place there’s no need to remove that for the purposes of this video but it is there so that you were aware to reinstall it’s easiest to have the gun in select fire have to trigger in stall the pin hold the pin centered and tighten down the set screw that’s our lower now if we take a look at the upper I will find that there’s also no electronics in the effort so our contact yoke here is not there other than that it looks pretty similar we have the same same clip at the front here Airlines routed the same way this is very very simple to disassemble route the air line back through pull it through pop the front clip and the engine comes straight out the back there’s nothing different about the uppers other than are the hop-up other than that we are using a different hop-up rubber for the reaper builds both mechanical and electrical looking at the engine that will see some somewhat significant differences as we noted this is the Gentoo reaper technology a real easy way to tell is that nozzle is now spring-loaded you’ll see at the back we don’t have a solenoid but we have this mechanical valve go ahead and remove that and we’ll take a look a little bit closer look at that now those of you that are familiar with the MTW engines will realize that we are we do not have the screw on the top of the engine the reason for this is that for the mechanical Reaper to work it actually sits in the receiver upside down okay so normally the engine sit in like this we’re gonna sit in just like this the mechanical valve itself is actuated by pushing the button on the back this is a built in pilot valve this is the pilot valve that sends the air to the main valve here so if you need to lubricate your valve it can be disassembled to this point we do not recommend disassembling the pilot valve itself it has some very small parts in it that should be serviced by a warranty Center and this is not a user serviceable element of the system but if you need to break down the valve in order to lubricate it and clean it whatever you need to do that’s how it works spring can drop back in it’ll sit down in a hole in the bottom check that our Springs lined up and you can thread the pilot back into the back of the valve so there we go reassembling this system the valve will simply screw into the back you don’t want to fully bottom this out the how far you thread this in actually acts as the adjustment on the trigger engagement because it moves the position of the the button with respect to the trigger mechanism but probably this won’t work for us if we need to adjust it we can adjust it once we give it a try reassembly is just like normal we’re gonna go ahead and line up the clip remember the engine goes in upside down so the air line is actually on the top side of the engine and then you can route through and we’re done we’ll go ahead and plug in there and check it so if you find that the trigger is not actually firing the system you probably need to just back that valve out a little bit make sure that it’s at a position where the trigger actually engages it and actuate sit other than that good to go so this has been the technical overview video for the Reaper m4 MTW

HYDRA Gen 2 Maintenance (Video)

You can find maintenance instructions for the HYDRA in the Owner’s Manual, or you can watch a complete breakdown in this video where rich demonstrates how to disassemble the engine, replace O-rings, nozzles and more.

Video transcript: what’s its deck so this is our brand-new Gen 2 Hydra we’re going to take a look at some of the technical aspects of this we’re going to tear it down take a look at how to do maintenance basic service like lubrication and overing replacement so first thing talking about o rings you don’t really have to worry about replacing this O ring on the outside that is not a sealing overing that’s just a friction element you can replace it if you need to but generally even if it gets a little nick in it it’s not going to hurt anything just go ahead and do basic disassembly two halves of the unit will unthread those of you that are familiar with the gen 2 inferno we’ll see some familiar stuff here that spring looks familiar the baffle there or the half of the baffle looks familiar and this gold poppet in there looks familiar I’m go ahead and take the valve out if we want to disassemble the valve housing which again this is not normal maintenance you would only disassemble this if you have a leak from maybe the back of the valve housing here the valve housing is two pieces one to the airline adapter and the other is the main valve housing so the only real reason to do this is if you have a leak between those two pieces but there’s a c-clip here which you can pop off taking care not to hurt yourself in the process so there’s our c-clip these two pieces just slide apart see there’s an o-ring here over in here if you’re having a problem with the leak there you can replace those two o-rings with the provided a ring from the o-ring kit or with a replacement o-ring kit to reinstall it you just have the port the port where the airline attaches to the back it will only go together one direction if you try to go the other direction you’re going to have trouble it’s going to sit like that and not really go together slide that on take the seat c-clip and just snap it in place make sure we push it all the way on there so it snaps in place so that’s your valve housing if you’re dealing with replacing a nozzle or needing to just fully disassemble the front half of the unit you will want a 3/16 allen wrench and you can go the back of the nozzle has an allen key in it so again if you’re familiar with the Gentoo inferno you will notice these are these parts look familiar these are all the same parts nozzle back the poppet o ring the baffle assembly there that is all part the same parts from the gen 2 inferno so it works exactly the same way which is why you get great performance out of it if you need to replace the nozzle you’re probably going to need the change of the nozzle offset so this is a tire 21 nozzle so we’re using the offset for the tire if you need to change the position of the front bushing plate there are three small Phillips head screws and then you can rotate the bushing plate to whatever offset position you need we’re going to put this nozzle back in so I’ll put it back how it was we do recommend using a little dab of tiny little dab of Loctite on these screws just to make sure they don’t shake loose during operation but if you don’t have it don’t stress about it too much it’s not normally a problem but we we do that with your initial assembly just as a precaution to make sure nothing goes wrong snug those down now you’ll notice that the tar twenty-ninth one nozzle I’m able to put in from the back most nozzles the offset is too much to be able to do that it won’t fit so you need to place the nozzle in first and then then put your bushing plate on but with the tire 21 we can just drop it in from the back and it’s not a problem now this assembly there’s two part baffle you have an o-ring here this is the o-ring that everybody always messes up on these systems this Oh ring goes on the top side of the baffle not underneath in between the the battle and the poppet here it goes right here around the gold part our nozzle back is already in there we will want to put a little bit of blue loctite on those threads so that when we thread it back into the nozzle it locks in place and we don’t have to worry about it coming loose spring valve housing threads right back together will just point one more thing out the Hydra works really nicely for showing people what the what is going on because you can actually see both the poppet and the nozzle and see that they can move with respect to each other if you’re still not clear on what’s going on the system what happens is they move forward the nozzle stops first but then the poppet the Prophet can actually can’t do it without scratching the top of there but it can actually move further forward there’s like gap here between your nozzle and your Papa to the poppet can keep moving forward so your novel moves forward all the way first it closes the BB and the hop-up then you have this pause while the poppet is continuing to move forward and open the air flows fire to BB so that pause is what stabilizes the BB and gives you really good precision with this system so that was your quick technical overview of the gen 2 Hydra I hope this was helpful to you guys as always leave comments or questions in the comment section below pop on facebook give us a like give us a follow on Instagram and be sure to subscribe here on YouTube for all the latest updates on Wolverine airsoft products

Quake Maintenance Guide (Video)

Rich demonstrates how to disassemble, maintain and reassemble the QUAKE Stock.

Note: The QUAKE has been discontinued.

Video transcript: one sec all right so this is going to be the technical overview video for the quake we’re going to this is focusing on the mechanical portions we covered the electronics and helps tuning in some other videos so this is just going to be dealing with how to disassemble it do any maintenance you might need to do on it and such so we’re going to go ahead and start with a 7/16 wrench or driver as we have in this case or skimming loosen this up now let’s just pull out the whole sliding mass spring system and for most of for basic maintenance that’s really all you’re going to need to do is take that off lubricate your o-rings these two are rings because there’s only two dynamic o-rings in the system and you can put it back together we’re going to go ahead and break it all the way down here and show you what’s inside in case you need to break it down further now before we get started on the more complete teardown I want to say two things one we don’t really recommend your average person do this there are some small components inside that can be damaged if you don’t do it properly if you’re having a problem with the with the core of the system it’s better to have us dealing with it on warranty or take it to a qualified tech to have them help you with it if you are going to do it there are a couple of tools that you will need you will need a 5/64 allen key and then you will need the one that is probably gonna be a little more difficult to find which is a 35 thousandths LMT this is a very very small allen key they can be found but you might not be able to pick one up at your local hardware store so before you try to do this make sure you have found a source or these tools to take this apart what we’re going to do is take the screw out using our 560 for this point this whole piece can come apart now this is the core of your system this is where your valve and your airline go in this point we can just unthread these two pieces there are no o-rings on this piece here and then this is where you will need your very very small allen key there’s a small set screw which sits right here which we’re just going to back out and then you can get access to your valve if you need it notice I didn’t pull this plug through I recommend just leaving it there unless you really pull that out if you need to completely pull this part you can pop the connector off of here and you can unscrew the valve do take care when you are reinstalling this valve take it out again you’re dealing with very small parts here the o-rings on this valve can easily be damaged if you’re not careful just be very gentle in screwing it back in and just make sure that you don’t feel any binding at all if you feel any binding back it up a little bit and work it until everything goes in nice and smoothly lubricate those o-rings a little bit before you put them back together again just to make sure you don’t damage an o-ring most people will never need to do this again this is just showing you the full breakdown in case you need it there are three o rings on the body here these are all the same o ring and if you need to replace them you’ll notice that there are actually six grooves three of them are air grooves and three of them are over in grooves the grooves that don’t have a port in them are the ones that get the o-rings they have one two three airings and then you have three grooves that have an airport and those do not get a rings that’s that will go ahead and put this back together here stick the air line through plug the valve in there is a small detent on the valve body here that’s what your set screw goes into you’ll notice it’s lined up with the air line so if we line that up and you don’t need to tighten this all the way down it just needs to get flush that’s just keeping the valve housing from where when we tighten the threads down go ahead and install the piece back in make sure you tighten that down and then this can go back into your buffer tube the threaded hole here goes on the bottom side of the buffer tube that’s where that little screw we took out at the beginning goes into just make sure you guide your your wiring and your air line through that’s always when dealing with wiring don’t force anything if it doesn’t want to go back up check what’s sticking and try again there we go so you can see we can find the threaded hole we can rotate this piece until we get it to line up and get our 5/64 you will want to put some Loctite some blue loctite on this or we use vibra tight which resists vibration but isn’t locking like like Loctite is so screw that in this you will want some blue loctite on the large side of the mask goes to the back real quick if you do need to replace the o-rings there’s one on the outside one on the inside just two overhangs can’t really mix them up so the large side of the mask goes to the back towards the spring at the back here we’ll talk about this real fast there you have a spring then you have a little rubber washer and then you have this small retaining plate that the spring sits on the spring goes on then your mass and that whole assembly goes into the back of the system simply tightens down again using our 7/16 wrench or in this case a driver there’s not a need to over tighten that because when you put the whole system together the way this is designed with the nut on this end once it’s installed in the system and then the tightening of the castle nut the tightening of the castle that actually stretches the whole thing and puts tension on on this bulb as well as the nut at the front so that keeps everything locked in place so you don’t need to go crazy on this bolt just tighten it in place and you are all set so that’s how you carry down your quick stock if you have any questions leave them in the comments section below as always comments or suggestions are welcome and give us a like on Facebook follow on Instagram and a subscription here on YouTube so you can get all the latest updates on Wolverine airsoft products thanks for watching guys