Rich demonstrates how to install the REAPER Electromechanical in a V2 and V3 gearbox.
Video transcript: hey guys today I’m worth attack lubricant can we look at the brand-new Reaper the electromechanical version in particular is how to install it alright so the electro mechanical Reaper unlike traditional HPA systems that include a a wire harness and an MCU and all that all you need for the electromechanical is this very simple to wire wire harness that’s what’s included with your reverse cylinder for the electromechanical kit now one of the really nice things there’s a few things about the electromechanical design that we like reasons we went with the electromechanical instead of doing a pure mechanical or something like that now first reason is compatibility you can see I have two different gearboxes here I have a v2 gearbox and a v3 gearbox this is actually out of a brand because you’re utilizing the existing trigger contacts this system is compatible with a really really wide range of guns whether you use a traditional shuttle system or a microswitch trigger all sorts of different designs won’t work whether it’s a v3 trigger mechanism v2 mega trigger mechanism it all works you don’t have to worry about making it fit you know in in different gearbox types now it also maintains a hundred percent of the efficiency and performance of the full version with the FCU and now you don’t have full auto obviously but you don’t have take any hit on efficiency and a pure mechanical system use this air to pilot the system until you end up losing some air just piloting the valve the trigger response is also oftentimes not as consistent here you get the full consistency because it’s still being opened electronically so that’s why let’s get into the how this is really pretty straightforward you will need a a soldering iron and that’s about it other than that I’ll just all your normal tools for getting into the gearbox so let’s pull both these trigger boards out and look at how this is going to be set up you can see on both of these trigger boards there are two wires going in this is really just a switch on almost any aeg it works the same way this is just a simple on/off switch now that’s all we need for the electromechanical you have two wires going in just like on the g2 over here you have two wires going in and all we’re going to do is take the two wires two wire leads that come on the electromechanical wire harness and we’re going to just solder them in like that orientation doesn’t matter because you’re just closing the circuit the direction the electricity is flowing doesn’t matter we have two pads here on the v2 it was in wire in two and then you’ll just simply set it back in gearbox exactly how it was so let’s step over to the solder station and let’s go ahead and solder these in all right so we’re going to go ahead and do this here I’m going to do the v3 board first and we’re just going to desolder there we go these the leads come already pre tinned so we don’t need to tin them a little bit of flux is always a good idea though so we’re going to go ahead and take small pieces of heat shrink slide them over the leads we’ll be able to protect that once we get it soldered on we put a little bit of flux on the connections to make sure that we get a good solid solder joint oh there’s our three board all reduce hit that with a hairdryer or a heat gun if you happen to have one to tighten up your heat shrink now on the v2 board there’s also going to be two pads just you solder them first this pad is actually not very well soldered from the factory so I’m going to put a little extra tinting on it now we’re just going to again the wires are already pre tin so we’re just going to solder them in place and it doesn’t matter which wire goes to which pad there we go that’s your v2 electromechanical trigger installation now to actually install this wiring we’ll take a look at the v2 first just going to drop it in like you normally would and put in your standard screw for your to hold it in and reinstall your shuttle and this just plugs into your solenoid at that point you can run the wires out either back to the buffer tube into the grip whatever you prefer v3 it’s going to be much the same run our wires through going to plug our solenoid in so we can see where the wires need to sit tuck them up above here if we are going to be running the wires through the front then we would do it like that on the Brynn I believe we’re going to be able to run them out the back so we’re going to do that and the wires simply can sit here alright so this is what it looks like once you have the electromechanical installed into v3 you can see the wires come out up at the front here this is your battery wire and I do want to point out one thing when you’re heating up the heat shrink you want to as you heat it to bend it back in towards the gearbox on the stock with the stock switch the wires come out of the gearbox we need to come back into the gearbox to match up with the solenoid just plug this get it out of the way we’re going to run our wires through there what we’re going to do is just pop up the trigger mechanism back in place with the shuttle installed maybe a little snug but just kind of play with it figure out where it’s hanging up just pop in place I like that now we’re just going to take our retaining screw this is the stock screw that in if you didn’t do it when you put it together originally go ahead and put your spring on I was like to do that step separately I just find it easier than messing with the spring while you’re trying to get the trigger unit installed there we go now we can check that our wiring isn’t interfering with the movement of the trigger looks good alright guys so that’s the rundown of how you do the electromechanical installation like we mentioned it works in a really wide range of gun platforms so for instance 417 here has the electromechanical in it again just use a standard trigger switch really pretty straightforward to do great system send the automatic only for this setup and you can always upgrade to the other electronics later if you decide you want full auto thanks for watching if you have any questions leave them in the comment section below give us a follow give us a like give us a subscribe on YouTube and we will see you guys out on the field you
To increase the dwell value for use with the REAPER, open the Bluetooth FCU app and navigate to the command line page. Enter D4444 in the command text line and press “Send command.”
If you can’t find a nozzle specific to your replica, you can determine the correct nozzle by measuring the two distances indicated below and adding them together. Then choose a nozzle from the list that is 0 to 0.5mm longer than your measurement.
|CA SCAR L||25.75|
|VFC SCAR H||36|
|KA SIG 556||47.4|
Use the chart below to determine what products you need to install an INFERNO or REAPER HPA engine into most airsoft replicas. For other engines including HYDRA and BOLT, please see their respective product pages.
*Note: When purchasing the Spartan FCU, no wiring harness or trigger board is necessary
|Replica||Kit to buy||Nozzle||Electronics||Wire Harness||Trigger Board|
|A&K Masada||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit + A&K Masada nozzle||A&K Masada||Premium/Spartan||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|A&K MK46||INFERNO Gen 2 M249 Premium kit||M4||Premium||M249 wire harness||M249 wire harness|
|A&K M60||INFERNO Gen 2 M249 Premium kit + A&K Masada Nozzle||A&K Masada||Premium||M249 wire harness||M249 wire harness|
|A&K PKM||INFERNO Gen 2 M249 Premium kit + A&K Masada Nozzle||A&K Masada||Premium||M249 wire harness||M249 wire harness|
|AK (LCT Spec)||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium kit||M4||Premium||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|AK (TM Spec)||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium kit||AK||Premium||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|Ares Stoner LMG||INFERNO Gen 2 M249 Premium kit + CA LMG nozzle||LMG||Premium||M249 wire harness||M249 wire harness|
|Ares M110||INFERNO Gen 2 V2 (M4) premium kit + Universal Wiring Kit||M4||Premium||V2 14″ Wire harness||Universal Wiring Kit|
|APS UAR||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium Kit||AK||Premium||V3 12″ Wire harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|ASG 805 BREN||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium kit + A&K Masada Nozzle||A&K Masada||Premium||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|Classic Army Stoner LMG||INFERNO Gen 2 M249 Premium kit + CA LMG nozzle||LMG||Premium||M249 Wire Harness||M249 Wire Harness|
|Cybergun M249 Featherweight||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit + A&K Masada nozzle||A&K Masada||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|Echo 1 240 Bravo||INFERNO Gen 2 M249 Premium kit||M4||Premium||M249 Wire Harness||M249 Wire Harness|
|FAL||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium Kit + A&K SR25||A&K SR25||Premium||V2 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|G&P M249||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit (shave down nozzle 0.5mm)||Custom M4 shaved down 0.5mm||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|G&G SR25||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit + G&G Sr25 nozzle||G&G SR25||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|G&P Stoner 63 (MK23)||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit (shave down nozzle 0.5mm)||Custom M4 shaved down 0.5mm||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|G36 (TM Spec)||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium kit + G36 nozzle||G36||Premium||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|ICS CXP APE||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit + XCR nozzle||XCR||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|JG AUG (TM Spec)||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium Kit + G36 nozzle (shave down 1mm)||G36 shaved by ~1 mm||Premium||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|King Arms 556||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium Kit + 556 nozzle||556||Premium||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|Krytac SPR||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit||M4||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|KWA Ronin series 2.5 GB||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit + AK nozzle||AK||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|KWA M4||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit||M4||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|LCT AK / AS VAL||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium Kit||M4||Premium||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|M4 (TM Spec)||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit||M4||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|M249 (CA, Echo 1, A&K)||INFERNO Gen 2 M249 Premium kit||M4||Premium||M249 wire harness||M249 wire harness|
|Mp5 (TM Spec)||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit||M4||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|MP5K (TM Spec)||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium Kit + KA FAL nozzle||KA FAL||Premium||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|PTS MASADA||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit + PTS Masada nozzle||PTS Masada||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|SCAR L (TM Spec)||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit + CA SCAR L nozzle||Ca Scar L||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|SL9 (TM Spec)||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium Kit + G36 nozzle||G36||Premium||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|SR25 (TM spec)||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit + A&K sr25 nozzle||A&K sr25||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|XCR (Plastic Body) (TM Spec)||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit||M4||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|VFC XCR (Metal Body)||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium Kit + XCR nozzle + Universal Wiring Kit||XCR||Premium||V2 14″ Wire Harness||Universal Wiring Kit|
|S&T TAR 21 (centerline)||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium Kit + Universal Wiring Kit||M4||Premium||V2 14″ Wire Harness||Universal Wiring Kit|
|VFC MP5||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit + CA LMG nozzle||LMG||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|VFC SCAR H||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit + Scar H nozzle||Scar H||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|VFC SCAR L||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit||M4||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|Sig 552 (TM Spec)||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium Kit + KA FAl nozzle||FAL||Premium||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|Umarex 417||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium Kit + Universal Wiring Kit||M4||Premium||V2 14″ Wire Harness||Universal Wiring Kit|
|Umarex G28||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium Kit + Universal Wiring Kit||M4||Premium||V2 14″ Wire Harness||Universal Wiring Kit|
|Umarex UMP||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium Kit + G36 nozzle||G36||Premium||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|Umarex H&K M27||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium Kit + Universal Wiring Kit||M4||Premium||V2 14″ Wire Harness||Universal Wiring Kit|
Rich explains the best way to check and correct alignment issues on an M4.
Video transcript: hey guys this is rich and today on what the tech we’re gonna take a look at alignment what it is how do you go about checking it alignment one of those bug buzzwords anybody that’s been around HPA for any length of time is heard but a lot of people don’t really understand it or don’t really feel comfortable with checking it and adjusting it so we’re going to take a look at how we check alignment and some ideas on how you go about fixing it so let’s jump right in alright so the way people have been checking alignment for quite a while and this is the way we suggested quite a while ago is basically this is your barrel this is your hop-up basically shining a light up the feed tube and then visually looking down the barrel and you can see generally when you’re looking down there where you’re gonna be able to see is you’re gonna be able to see the barrel you’re gonna be able to see the nozzle as well and then now the nozzle will either look nice and centered like it should or well look off to one side or high above something like that and you can see where you need to adjust it so let’s talk about why that method is not wrong per se but I’m not always completely accurate what ends up happening sometimes is the hop-up fits into the front of the gearbox you can actually get into situations where if if that fit between the hop-up and the gearbox is tight for instance again here’s our barrel it will be held in place by the gearbox here’s our gearbox over here and it’ll it’ll need to line up with the gearbox over here but that line is not straight with the barrel so but it gets forced into that position then what you end up with is one of two things either you bend the barrel a little bit to make it fit in position or the parts within the hop-up themselves shift a little bit with respect to each other so that it can line up but either way the end result is when you’re looking down because it’s still held Center the hop-up itself is held centered on the gearbox real closely it’ll still look like it’s centered it’ll still look good in your eye isn’t gonna pick up on the slight curve in the barrel or the parts being being shifted a little bit sometimes it’ll it’ll look good and then you’ll take it apart and you’ll find that the nozzle maybe has some marks like it’s rubbing on the hop-up or or something along those lines or it’s still not shooting real well but it looks good so we’re gonna talk about an alternative method for how to how to check the alignment that works a lot better so what you’re gonna need is your gun and a donor barrel and that’s about it you need those two things and maybe you’re gonna want to do it in a pretty well lit area so you can see clearly but other than that don’t need a flashlight don’t need anything like that so let’s talk about how to do this okay so what we’re gonna do is going to take our barrel as you can see we’ve got the system installed in the gearbox and we have removed the hop-up and barrel from the gun you want a barrel with the hop-up off and I’m gonna do is I’m going to slide the barrel down the inner barrel if you watch be able to see it come out right there and all I’m gonna do is this lets me visually check whether it’s lined up you can see if the nozzle actually lines up correctly from the side and you can look from the bottom and see it lines up well from the bottom now there may be some guns that this is doesn’t work real well on but for the most part especially any stage damn for this is by far the best way to go about checking and you can see where you need to adjust it if you need to adjust it alright so you found that you’ve checked your alignment and you found that it’s off for some reason we can’t cover every single gun and how you would go about fixing it we can’t even really cover every single variant because there’s a lot of them but give you some general ideas specifically for m4 style platforms as far as how you might go about adjusting it put the receiver apart here there’s basically two ways that the that the alignment can be off it can be off vertically it can be off so side to side of the two generally side to side is a little easier and more reliable to fix generally basically what you’re gonna do is you need to space the gearbox on the two sides here between the receiver and the gearbox generally we put just a drill and put in some set screws on each side and that allows you to adjust it so right down in this location I put a screw in on that side I’m gonna screw down in on that side and then you can adjust it back and forth and you can get it centered right where you want and once you get it you can lock tight those screws in place and they’ll never move and it reliably goes back together the same way every time vertically is a little more a little more tricky if that’s off sometimes because in theory this shouldn’t this gearbox shouldn’t be able to move vertically in theory it’s held in place by these two pins however sometimes those pins either are not in the right location or they are loose so the gearbox has some slop in it one way or the other if it’s off vertically generally what we will do is we’ll remove this front pin for just remove that guy and and just try to adjust the vertical with the back pin in place the the back body pin there in place on a lot of guns the reason that most most often when we see the alignment off vertically what we see is it’s too high the nozzle is sitting up too high in the receiver usually this is because the buffer tube is going into the back of the gearbox this one’s been modified you can see so that’s not an issue on on this this platform at this point but it’s going into the back of the gearbox with the buffer tube adapter and that’s getting tightened down and that’s pivoting the gearbox around at this point and it’s pulling it rotating the gearbox backwards or counterclockwise which pulls the nozzle up if that’s what you’re finding what you’re going to want to do is loosen the buffer tube up and tighten down the grip screws first because those grips screws are pulling on an angle like this and if we remove this pin now when they’re pulling they’re pulling the front of the gearbox down lower so you’re gonna if it’s too high which is by far the most common thing we see with alignment on M4s just go ahead and tighten the grip down first maybe tighten it down a little bit at a time and you can go back and check the alignment as you go put the top back upper receiver back on and check it a couple times and then then Snug down your your buffer tube screw and don’t just go nuts on that Snug it down as much as it needs to be but don’t don’t crank it down super tight because you might might pull it back up usually that those methods will will get you lined up sometimes in more extreme cases you may find that it just the gearbox can’t sit in the right position in the lower receiver this usually is because people are using a mismatched gearbox and receiver they’re using a different brand gearbox than the receiver they’re using we don’t really have time to go into how to fix that issue right now but generally we just recommend use the same brand preferably the same gearbox that came with the gun but at least the same brand gearbox so that you don’t run into that type of a situation that’s generally how we go about fixing basic alignment alignment issues I highly recommend using this method running the barrel down visually check how it lines up with the nozzle because it’s going to make it makes it much easier to pick up on misalignment then the way it’s been done in the past thanks for watching guys I hope this was helpful to you if you have any questions or comments be sure to leave them in the comment section below and we look forward to seeing you guys out on the field
Peter shows how easy it is to upgrade to the GEN 2 Inferno! Keep in mind swapping the engines is easy, but make sure you are comfortable breaking down your rifle.
Video transcript: alright guys what’s up this is Peter rich is not here today so I’m going to show you just how easy it is to upgrade to the gen 2 inferno if you already have either our SMP or gen 1 in for now keep in mind and not a tech no Jack this is not what I usually do but if I can do it I think you can do it too so we have hezron going here he’s one of our sponsor players up in new jersey go check him out we’re gonna break his gun down and I’ll credit to it in two all right so we got his crotch back all broken down she’s got the Gen 1 Inferno right here – comes with a filtered grip line keeps all that dirt and debris out of your solenoid and so all we’re gonna do just swap the swap the box all right there you go easy swap we’re just gonna put everything back together and the one thing you got to make sure is to not pinch any wires as you’re putting this all back together all right so we got the gen 2 installed and we’re gonna all right so there’s guys you can pick up a Gentoo upgrade kit you can check with our retailers or you can check shop Wolverine airsoft calm and we’ll see you guys out on the field
For instruction for disassembling and maintaining your REAPER M, please see the Owner’s Manual and/or watch a complete breakdown of the engine in this video.
Video transcript: what’s up guys today we’re gonna take a look at the mechanical Reaper in MTW so to get started this is a mechanical version of our Reaper systems all of the mechanical Reapers we are shipping come with the Gentoo Reaper technology if you haven’t seen the Gentoo Reaper technical overview video check the link in the description below so let’s go ahead and jump into this we’re gonna go ahead and pump both body pins pull upper and lower apart now starting with a little lower well immediately notice that has a different trigger this is a cnc aluminum trigger assembly has a little we call the elbow link up here this is a completely different trigger mechanism than the electrical guns there’s no electronics inside you just have to just have this simple trigger mechanism so if we pop that out we’re gonna use one point five millimeter allen key to loosen the setscrew trigger pin out uses the same trigger pin and here is our trigger assembly quickly that there’s a little spring there this is the set screw that holds the trigger on to the trigger pin when it’s installed in the lower we also notice that we’ve put a pin in the front here this is held in with a hairpin clip right here and the spring to keep it in place there’s no need to remove that for the purposes of this video but it is there so that you were aware to reinstall it’s easiest to have the gun in select fire have to trigger in stall the pin hold the pin centered and tighten down the set screw that’s our lower now if we take a look at the upper I will find that there’s also no electronics in the effort so our contact yoke here is not there other than that it looks pretty similar we have the same same clip at the front here Airlines routed the same way this is very very simple to disassemble route the air line back through pull it through pop the front clip and the engine comes straight out the back there’s nothing different about the uppers other than are the hop-up other than that we are using a different hop-up rubber for the reaper builds both mechanical and electrical looking at the engine that will see some somewhat significant differences as we noted this is the Gentoo reaper technology a real easy way to tell is that nozzle is now spring-loaded you’ll see at the back we don’t have a solenoid but we have this mechanical valve go ahead and remove that and we’ll take a look a little bit closer look at that now those of you that are familiar with the MTW engines will realize that we are we do not have the screw on the top of the engine the reason for this is that for the mechanical Reaper to work it actually sits in the receiver upside down okay so normally the engine sit in like this we’re gonna sit in just like this the mechanical valve itself is actuated by pushing the button on the back this is a built in pilot valve this is the pilot valve that sends the air to the main valve here so if you need to lubricate your valve it can be disassembled to this point we do not recommend disassembling the pilot valve itself it has some very small parts in it that should be serviced by a warranty Center and this is not a user serviceable element of the system but if you need to break down the valve in order to lubricate it and clean it whatever you need to do that’s how it works spring can drop back in it’ll sit down in a hole in the bottom check that our Springs lined up and you can thread the pilot back into the back of the valve so there we go reassembling this system the valve will simply screw into the back you don’t want to fully bottom this out the how far you thread this in actually acts as the adjustment on the trigger engagement because it moves the position of the the button with respect to the trigger mechanism but probably this won’t work for us if we need to adjust it we can adjust it once we give it a try reassembly is just like normal we’re gonna go ahead and line up the clip remember the engine goes in upside down so the air line is actually on the top side of the engine and then you can route through and we’re done we’ll go ahead and plug in there and check it so if you find that the trigger is not actually firing the system you probably need to just back that valve out a little bit make sure that it’s at a position where the trigger actually engages it and actuate sit other than that good to go so this has been the technical overview video for the Reaper m4 MTW
Wolverine Airsoft engines including the INFERNO, HYDRA, REAPER and BOLT all use either a 214 or 314 solenoid. In the event that dust or debris makes its way into the solenoid, it may become necessary to clean it.
Please see our Solenoid Maintenance Guide for detailed instructions on how to disassemble, maintain and reassemble your solenoid.
Wolverine Airsoft engines including the INFERNO,
HYDRA, REAPER and BOLT all use either a 214
or 314 solenoid. In the event that dust or debris
makes its way into the solenoid, it may become
necessary to clean it.
You will need:
• Compressed Air
• 2.5mm Allen Key
or 3mm square
bit for solenoids
with plastic caps
Begin by removing your solenoid
from your Wolverine Airsoft
engine by unscrewing it counter-clockwise from the engine.
The HYDRA will require the
additional step of removing the
retention clip from around the
MAC Valves 214, 2-Way Solenoid
MAC Valves 314, 3-Way Solenoid
Use a 2.5mm Allen key or 3mm
square bit to remove the cap
from the solenoid by rotating
Use a blunt instrument to open
the valve by pushing on the piston in the center hole as shown
below. This will open the valve
Replace the brass end cap
using the 2.5mm Allen key or
3mm square bit.
While holding the valve open
use compressed air to remove
the debris from the valve. It
is important to not scratch
the seal. The debris will usually
be found just behind the front
O-ring as indicated in the image.
Finally, reinstall the solenoid in
your engine and hand-tighten it.
Need professional help?
To find a retailer close to you visit: