Rich demonstrates how to install an INFERNO in an M4 with V2 gearbox.
Note: For INFERNO Gen 1, refer to this video instead.
Video transcript: all right so our patient today is the salient arms gray from EMG and we are going to go ahead and tear this down and get it ready for installation all right so everything’s disassembled we’ve got the gearbox out here all we’re going to do at this point is just assemble the gearbox as per usual and get rid of everything inside all right so got everything out everything we don’t need has been put away see we still have the trigger in the trigger spring we also still have the selector plate and the safety arm here other than that everything has been set aside if you want at this point you can go ahead and wipe some of the grease out of the gearbox if there’s a lot doesn’t really hurt anything generally cleans up the installation so we’ll go ahead and do that for that we’re just going to use a rag with a little bit of acetone on it worried about getting every last bit but just get majority of it out of there so it doesn’t gunk anything up make it greasy one step we do on all of our installations usually is not necessary but we do it just to make sure is if you have a selector plate here that doesn’t have the metal sleeve on it we go ahead and just chamfer that inside edge a little bit that engages this selector switch a little bit you can see I don’t even have to remove it from the gearbox all I’m doing is breaking that sharp edge so before we go ahead and install everything I want to talk about one thing we do that is not absolutely required but we do it on just about all of our builds um and that is put in alignment screws so I’m going to go ahead and put a couple screws back in the body here now what we’re going to do is we’re going to put in set screws on the sides of the gearbox that will sit in between the gearbox and the lower receiver here so with the alignment screws first thing you want to do is locate where you want them on the gearbox we are going to put them on these two raised surfaces inside the receiver here sort of on the front side of that you can see we have used to Center punch to punch a hole or a starting mark in the gearbox the one thing I will say with that is you have to be careful drilling through here it’s easy to come through on a corner or an edge on the inside and that if you’re not careful can break your drill bit be real careful you want to try to drill through to a spot that is flat on the inside surface as well for instance this hole here if I look inside that’s going to come through right on the bottom flange of the gearbox so I’m going to move it up just a hair all right like that and that should give me enough clearance that I don’t come through so we use 632 set screws for this I have a 760 fourths drill bit that you use to drill the hole and then we’ll tap it one pull it over and to the other side alright so we got our two holes drilled we’re going to take our 632 tap we’re going to tap those holes now we can take our set screws I’ll throw it in just fine you can see that the set screws are basically right across from each other I just eyeballed this I didn’t tried to drill at all as one hole we find that trying to drill at all as one hole I tend to break your drill bit if you’re not careful there are pretty much right across from each other which is what we want – they’re pushing straight across at each other and not twisting gearbox by pushing here and here there we go that’s how we do our alignment screws alright now as far as setting the alignment screws what we’re going to do is start out with we are just going to do it visually and basically set them so that they are the same length on on each side so that they’re fitting snugly in between the receiver there later on we’re going to go ahead and actually check the alignment once the unit is installed and make sure it’s set up perfectly and then we’ll lock tight those screws in place get them all locked down to the move let’s go ahead and take this back out and go ahead and put the system in the gear box alright so we’ll be doing the Spartan Edition here so we’re going to go ahead and put the electronics in we’ll note that we did remove this small stud that sits right here to the trigger spring stud we did remove that on this gear box we found that it made the the board sit in a better position most of the time that’s not really necessary often it’s just part of the gear box but we found the way the holes lined up on this gearbox it let it sit in a better position if we removed that small flat-head screwdriver we’ll take that right out we’re going to run our wiring down here and there’s some two options basically one is to do this and to run it through the center here in some ways that’s the easiest option because then you can just run your wiring right through the center of the grip if you are running your wiring alternatively you can run your wiring right here like the stock wiring however if you do that you can’t just run the wiring through the center of the grip because the section here will pinch the wiring up against the gearbox once you tighten it down so if you want to run it like this then you’ll need to take a dremel or something and open up the slot between those two so you can run the fitting through there and then slide it over so it goes through that hole and doesn’t get pinched we’re just going to run it through the middle so for this installation we’re going to be using the Gentoo inferno we will be using the Wolverine airsoft filtered grip line let’s go ahead and get that installed so now we can plug it into the electronics put it into the gearbox and the the air line in this case is just going to run out right the same way that the wire harness does so now we’re going to install the buffer tube adapter we’re going to take the buffer tube screw thread it in there set that in place right like so put our trigger back in gearbox back together we just reinstall all our screws always make sure that your wiring is not pinched so before we fully tighten this down I’m going to put one in up towards the front where there’s not really any wiring and I’m just going to put it in loosely to hold everything together and I’m going to check and make sure that no wiring is being pinched that everything is free and clear there go ahead and snug everything back down one trick will match mention here is some gearboxes studio variation in the manufacturers the buffer tube adapter stays in place more securely than others the GM P’s it says it’s and to stay in pretty well but if you find that it just wants to fall out of place a lot you can take say a small piece of foam or we’ve even seen people use packing peanuts sounds silly but if it works it’s not really silly and stick it in between the back of the solenoid here and the buffer tube adapter there just to hold it in place there in the gearbox so it doesn’t move around this kind it’s not really necessary but you might find it helpful on some gun you’re working on all right so we got everything installed in the gearbox here we got our alignment set screws installed and roughly adjusted at this point we would go ahead and test the electronics soon we can plug it into air pressure check it make sure that everything is functioning normally always a good idea before you put everything back in the gun if you hadn’t done anything with the alignment screws you’d go ahead and reassemble it normally at this point what we’re going to do is we’re going to go through the alignment process and show you how to do that more precisely make sure everything is locked down so we’re going to go ahead and install the gearbox back in the lower receiver and we’re going to go ahead and put our two pins through again checking the wiring you may be able to see here if I just pressed here my wiring is going to get caught by the pin so we don’t want to do that we want to push the wiring out of the way let the pin pass through on some gearboxes you can use the wire guide keep the wiring out of the way the GMP gearbox is the wiring guide doesn’t work for that application so I would tend to watch out for it I’m going to go ahead and put my front alignment pin in so I have in our lower receiver and if there’s a lot of play in it still you might have to put the grip on as well to pull things together in this case there’s not a lot of play with there’s alignment screws and the two pins and back things are pretty solid so now what we’re going to do is we’re going to take our barrel and hop up out of our upper receiver you’re going to assemble this lower receiver without any barrel and hop-up just like so now we’re going to use another barrel we’re going to slide it down in the far end and the muzzle end of the barrel we’re going to check our alignment as you can see the alignments pretty close it probably would be okay but you see the barrel is sitting a little more towards to the left side of the gun then the nozzle is so we’re going to go back in and use those lineman screws to straighten that up and get that just perfect so we’re going to pull it out and what we’re going to do is we want the nozzle to move towards the left side of the receiver I am going to tighten the screw down by a half turn and then I’m going to back the other side out by a half turn as well do it just right by the same amount you still should be snug there we go got it snug back up there’s no play now we’re going to put it back together and see how we did alright so after our adjustment we got it back together and now when we check barrel lines up perfectly was nozzle and we’re one last time the receiver off and I’m going to put a little dab of Loctite on those two adjustment screws now if this was a vibration heavy application we’d want to put the lock tight on ahead of time so it really got worked down into the threads as it is all we want to do is just you know keep it from moving during normal use so we don’t generally bother taking it all the way back out just put a dab on the outside it will sort of wick down into the threads enough that it won’t really budge during normal use and that way we don’t have to worry about getting this the threads right back in the same position after we take them back out now we’re all ready to go we’re just going to go ahead and put her back together with the grip installed we can go ahead and check now that our selector states are working correctly which they are so now that we got the grip foot back on the buffer tube back put back on we’re just going to do one final check that we’re still lined up which it looks good check out our more focused alignment video as far as how the buffer tube and grip work together to sometimes affect the alignment but in this case we just tighten the grip down then put the buffer tube on and we were we’re all set there so pop it back off one last time put our shiny new mock bolt in there slide it all back together should be good grab some air and test it out alright we are good to go so that was the installation process beginning to end I hope that was helpful showing how all the different steps work together and sort of the process we go through to make sure we get thing things together just right every time so drop us a comment be sure to give us a follow for lots more informational videos as well as product announcements and other good stuff from Wolverine Airsoft
If you can’t find a nozzle specific to your replica, you can determine the correct nozzle by measuring the two distances indicated below and adding them together. Then choose a nozzle from the list that is 0 to 0.5mm longer than your measurement.
|CA SCAR L||25.75|
|VFC SCAR H||36|
|KA SIG 556||47.4|
Use the chart below to determine what products you need to install an INFERNO or REAPER HPA engine into most airsoft replicas. For other engines including HYDRA and BOLT, please see their respective product pages.
*Note: When purchasing the Spartan FCU, no wiring harness or trigger board is necessary
|Replica||Kit to buy||Nozzle||Electronics||Wire Harness||Trigger Board|
|A&K Masada||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit + A&K Masada nozzle||A&K Masada||Premium/Spartan||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|A&K MK46||INFERNO Gen 2 M249 Premium kit||M4||Premium||M249 wire harness||M249 wire harness|
|A&K M60||INFERNO Gen 2 M249 Premium kit + A&K Masada Nozzle||A&K Masada||Premium||M249 wire harness||M249 wire harness|
|A&K PKM||INFERNO Gen 2 M249 Premium kit + A&K Masada Nozzle||A&K Masada||Premium||M249 wire harness||M249 wire harness|
|AK (LCT Spec)||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium kit||M4||Premium||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|AK (TM Spec)||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium kit||AK||Premium||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|Ares Stoner LMG||INFERNO Gen 2 M249 Premium kit + CA LMG nozzle||LMG||Premium||M249 wire harness||M249 wire harness|
|Ares M110||INFERNO Gen 2 V2 (M4) premium kit + Universal Wiring Kit||M4||Premium||V2 14″ Wire harness||Universal Wiring Kit|
|APS UAR||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium Kit||AK||Premium||V3 12″ Wire harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|ASG 805 BREN||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium kit + A&K Masada Nozzle||A&K Masada||Premium||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|Classic Army Stoner LMG||INFERNO Gen 2 M249 Premium kit + CA LMG nozzle||LMG||Premium||M249 Wire Harness||M249 Wire Harness|
|Cybergun M249 Featherweight||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit + A&K Masada nozzle||A&K Masada||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|Echo 1 240 Bravo||INFERNO Gen 2 M249 Premium kit||M4||Premium||M249 Wire Harness||M249 Wire Harness|
|FAL||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium Kit + A&K SR25||A&K SR25||Premium||V2 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|G&P M249||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit (shave down nozzle 0.5mm)||Custom M4 shaved down 0.5mm||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|G&G SR25||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit + G&G Sr25 nozzle||G&G SR25||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|G&P Stoner 63 (MK23)||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit (shave down nozzle 0.5mm)||Custom M4 shaved down 0.5mm||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|G36 (TM Spec)||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium kit + G36 nozzle||G36||Premium||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|ICS CXP APE||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit + XCR nozzle||XCR||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|JG AUG (TM Spec)||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium Kit + G36 nozzle (shave down 1mm)||G36 shaved by ~1 mm||Premium||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|King Arms 556||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium Kit + 556 nozzle||556||Premium||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|Krytac SPR||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit||M4||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|KWA Ronin series 2.5 GB||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit + AK nozzle||AK||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|KWA M4||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit||M4||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|LCT AK / AS VAL||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium Kit||M4||Premium||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|M4 (TM Spec)||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit||M4||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|M249 (CA, Echo 1, A&K)||INFERNO Gen 2 M249 Premium kit||M4||Premium||M249 wire harness||M249 wire harness|
|Mp5 (TM Spec)||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit||M4||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|MP5K (TM Spec)||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium Kit + KA FAL nozzle||KA FAL||Premium||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|PTS MASADA||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit + PTS Masada nozzle||PTS Masada||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|SCAR L (TM Spec)||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit + CA SCAR L nozzle||Ca Scar L||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|SL9 (TM Spec)||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium Kit + G36 nozzle||G36||Premium||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|SR25 (TM spec)||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit + A&K sr25 nozzle||A&K sr25||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|XCR (Plastic Body) (TM Spec)||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit||M4||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|VFC XCR (Metal Body)||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium Kit + XCR nozzle + Universal Wiring Kit||XCR||Premium||V2 14″ Wire Harness||Universal Wiring Kit|
|S&T TAR 21 (centerline)||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium Kit + Universal Wiring Kit||M4||Premium||V2 14″ Wire Harness||Universal Wiring Kit|
|VFC MP5||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit + CA LMG nozzle||LMG||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|VFC SCAR H||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit + Scar H nozzle||Scar H||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|VFC SCAR L||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium or Spartan kit||M4||Premium/Spartan||V2 14″ Wire Harness||V2 Trigger Board|
|Sig 552 (TM Spec)||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium Kit + KA FAl nozzle||FAL||Premium||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|Umarex 417||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium Kit + Universal Wiring Kit||M4||Premium||V2 14″ Wire Harness||Universal Wiring Kit|
|Umarex G28||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium Kit + Universal Wiring Kit||M4||Premium||V2 14″ Wire Harness||Universal Wiring Kit|
|Umarex UMP||INFERNO Gen 2 V3 (AK) Premium Kit + G36 nozzle||G36||Premium||V3 12″ Wire Harness||V3 Trigger Board|
|Umarex H&K M27||Inferno Gen 2 V2 (M4) Premium Kit + Universal Wiring Kit||M4||Premium||V2 14″ Wire Harness||Universal Wiring Kit|
Garrett tears apart Dalton’s brand new LCT AK and installs an INFERNO Gen 2. Note that the LCT AK requires an M4 nozzle. Be sure to consult the compatibility guide for your installation: https://www.wolverineairsoft.com/knowledgebase/compatibility-guide
Rich explains the best way to check and correct alignment issues on an M4.
Video transcript: hey guys this is rich and today on what the tech we’re gonna take a look at alignment what it is how do you go about checking it alignment one of those bug buzzwords anybody that’s been around HPA for any length of time is heard but a lot of people don’t really understand it or don’t really feel comfortable with checking it and adjusting it so we’re going to take a look at how we check alignment and some ideas on how you go about fixing it so let’s jump right in alright so the way people have been checking alignment for quite a while and this is the way we suggested quite a while ago is basically this is your barrel this is your hop-up basically shining a light up the feed tube and then visually looking down the barrel and you can see generally when you’re looking down there where you’re gonna be able to see is you’re gonna be able to see the barrel you’re gonna be able to see the nozzle as well and then now the nozzle will either look nice and centered like it should or well look off to one side or high above something like that and you can see where you need to adjust it so let’s talk about why that method is not wrong per se but I’m not always completely accurate what ends up happening sometimes is the hop-up fits into the front of the gearbox you can actually get into situations where if if that fit between the hop-up and the gearbox is tight for instance again here’s our barrel it will be held in place by the gearbox here’s our gearbox over here and it’ll it’ll need to line up with the gearbox over here but that line is not straight with the barrel so but it gets forced into that position then what you end up with is one of two things either you bend the barrel a little bit to make it fit in position or the parts within the hop-up themselves shift a little bit with respect to each other so that it can line up but either way the end result is when you’re looking down because it’s still held Center the hop-up itself is held centered on the gearbox real closely it’ll still look like it’s centered it’ll still look good in your eye isn’t gonna pick up on the slight curve in the barrel or the parts being being shifted a little bit sometimes it’ll it’ll look good and then you’ll take it apart and you’ll find that the nozzle maybe has some marks like it’s rubbing on the hop-up or or something along those lines or it’s still not shooting real well but it looks good so we’re gonna talk about an alternative method for how to how to check the alignment that works a lot better so what you’re gonna need is your gun and a donor barrel and that’s about it you need those two things and maybe you’re gonna want to do it in a pretty well lit area so you can see clearly but other than that don’t need a flashlight don’t need anything like that so let’s talk about how to do this okay so what we’re gonna do is going to take our barrel as you can see we’ve got the system installed in the gearbox and we have removed the hop-up and barrel from the gun you want a barrel with the hop-up off and I’m gonna do is I’m going to slide the barrel down the inner barrel if you watch be able to see it come out right there and all I’m gonna do is this lets me visually check whether it’s lined up you can see if the nozzle actually lines up correctly from the side and you can look from the bottom and see it lines up well from the bottom now there may be some guns that this is doesn’t work real well on but for the most part especially any stage damn for this is by far the best way to go about checking and you can see where you need to adjust it if you need to adjust it alright so you found that you’ve checked your alignment and you found that it’s off for some reason we can’t cover every single gun and how you would go about fixing it we can’t even really cover every single variant because there’s a lot of them but give you some general ideas specifically for m4 style platforms as far as how you might go about adjusting it put the receiver apart here there’s basically two ways that the that the alignment can be off it can be off vertically it can be off so side to side of the two generally side to side is a little easier and more reliable to fix generally basically what you’re gonna do is you need to space the gearbox on the two sides here between the receiver and the gearbox generally we put just a drill and put in some set screws on each side and that allows you to adjust it so right down in this location I put a screw in on that side I’m gonna screw down in on that side and then you can adjust it back and forth and you can get it centered right where you want and once you get it you can lock tight those screws in place and they’ll never move and it reliably goes back together the same way every time vertically is a little more a little more tricky if that’s off sometimes because in theory this shouldn’t this gearbox shouldn’t be able to move vertically in theory it’s held in place by these two pins however sometimes those pins either are not in the right location or they are loose so the gearbox has some slop in it one way or the other if it’s off vertically generally what we will do is we’ll remove this front pin for just remove that guy and and just try to adjust the vertical with the back pin in place the the back body pin there in place on a lot of guns the reason that most most often when we see the alignment off vertically what we see is it’s too high the nozzle is sitting up too high in the receiver usually this is because the buffer tube is going into the back of the gearbox this one’s been modified you can see so that’s not an issue on on this this platform at this point but it’s going into the back of the gearbox with the buffer tube adapter and that’s getting tightened down and that’s pivoting the gearbox around at this point and it’s pulling it rotating the gearbox backwards or counterclockwise which pulls the nozzle up if that’s what you’re finding what you’re going to want to do is loosen the buffer tube up and tighten down the grip screws first because those grips screws are pulling on an angle like this and if we remove this pin now when they’re pulling they’re pulling the front of the gearbox down lower so you’re gonna if it’s too high which is by far the most common thing we see with alignment on M4s just go ahead and tighten the grip down first maybe tighten it down a little bit at a time and you can go back and check the alignment as you go put the top back upper receiver back on and check it a couple times and then then Snug down your your buffer tube screw and don’t just go nuts on that Snug it down as much as it needs to be but don’t don’t crank it down super tight because you might might pull it back up usually that those methods will will get you lined up sometimes in more extreme cases you may find that it just the gearbox can’t sit in the right position in the lower receiver this usually is because people are using a mismatched gearbox and receiver they’re using a different brand gearbox than the receiver they’re using we don’t really have time to go into how to fix that issue right now but generally we just recommend use the same brand preferably the same gearbox that came with the gun but at least the same brand gearbox so that you don’t run into that type of a situation that’s generally how we go about fixing basic alignment alignment issues I highly recommend using this method running the barrel down visually check how it lines up with the nozzle because it’s going to make it makes it much easier to pick up on misalignment then the way it’s been done in the past thanks for watching guys I hope this was helpful to you if you have any questions or comments be sure to leave them in the comment section below and we look forward to seeing you guys out on the field
Peter shows how easy it is to upgrade to the GEN 2 Inferno! Keep in mind swapping the engines is easy, but make sure you are comfortable breaking down your rifle.
Video transcript: alright guys what’s up this is Peter rich is not here today so I’m going to show you just how easy it is to upgrade to the gen 2 inferno if you already have either our SMP or gen 1 in for now keep in mind and not a tech no Jack this is not what I usually do but if I can do it I think you can do it too so we have hezron going here he’s one of our sponsor players up in new jersey go check him out we’re gonna break his gun down and I’ll credit to it in two all right so we got his crotch back all broken down she’s got the Gen 1 Inferno right here – comes with a filtered grip line keeps all that dirt and debris out of your solenoid and so all we’re gonna do just swap the swap the box all right there you go easy swap we’re just gonna put everything back together and the one thing you got to make sure is to not pinch any wires as you’re putting this all back together all right so we got the gen 2 installed and we’re gonna all right so there’s guys you can pick up a Gentoo upgrade kit you can check with our retailers or you can check shop Wolverine airsoft calm and we’ll see you guys out on the field
Wolverine Airsoft engines including the INFERNO, HYDRA, REAPER and BOLT all use either a 214 or 314 solenoid. In the event that dust or debris makes its way into the solenoid, it may become necessary to clean it.
Please see our Solenoid Maintenance Guide for detailed instructions on how to disassemble, maintain and reassemble your solenoid.
Wolverine Airsoft engines including the INFERNO,
HYDRA, REAPER and BOLT all use either a 214
or 314 solenoid. In the event that dust or debris
makes its way into the solenoid, it may become
necessary to clean it.
You will need:
• Compressed Air
• 2.5mm Allen Key
or 3mm square
bit for solenoids
with plastic caps
Begin by removing your solenoid
from your Wolverine Airsoft
engine by unscrewing it counter-clockwise from the engine.
The HYDRA will require the
additional step of removing the
retention clip from around the
MAC Valves 214, 2-Way Solenoid
MAC Valves 314, 3-Way Solenoid
Use a 2.5mm Allen key or 3mm
square bit to remove the cap
from the solenoid by rotating
Use a blunt instrument to open
the valve by pushing on the piston in the center hole as shown
below. This will open the valve
Replace the brass end cap
using the 2.5mm Allen key or
3mm square bit.
While holding the valve open
use compressed air to remove
the debris from the valve. It
is important to not scratch
the seal. The debris will usually
be found just behind the front
O-ring as indicated in the image.
Finally, reinstall the solenoid in
your engine and hand-tighten it.
Need professional help?
To find a retailer close to you visit:
For detailed instructions on installing an INFERNO in a Stoner 63 gearbox, please see the Stoner Wiring Guide. NOTE: The engine shown is a Wolverine Airsoft SMP which was replaced by the INFERNO.