When looking for electronics to power one of our airsoft engines in an AEG to HPA conversion, there are two main components: The trigger board and the FCU (Fire Control Unit). We offer two options: The Spartan Electronics board is a trigger board and FCU all-in-one design. While limited to only V2 gear boxes, the design enables the Spartan to take up less space and makes the system more cost effective and easier to set up. Our Gen 2 Premium FCU is a standalone FCU that connects to a separate trigger board. The Premium FCU allows for more options in fitment, tuning, and fire modes. Check out the information below to see which is right for your needs.
The Spartan Electronics board is a trigger board and FCU all-in-one. The key advantage of the Spartan Electronics board is it’s simple and robust design and lower price point. Settings are primarily manipulated with use of the trigger.
3 Available Fire Mode Presets • Semi / Full Auto • Semi / 3-Round Burst • Semi / Semi *Additional modes available in MTW version.
8 Quick / Easy ROF Presets Select a preset from 10RPS to 33RPS by holding down the trigger as it fires three-round bursts until desired ROF is reached.
12Quick/Easy Dwell Presets Set dwell by holding down trigger as it fires once per second until drop in FPS is noticed, then double-tap to step back up one preset.
The Gen 2Premium FCU is a standalone FCU and requires a separate trigger board. The key advantage of the Premium FCU is a greater variety of available fire modes, more precise setting values for dwell and rate of fire, and an intuitive LED menu with tool-less button style programming.
Set any of 7 fire modes to for each selector position • Full-auto • 7-Round Burst • 5-Round Burst • 3-Round Burst • 2-Round Burst • Single Round • DMR Mode (Semi-auto with 2 second delay between shots)
Precise ROF Setting Set rate of fire to any integer value from 1 to 63 RPS.
Precise Dwell Setting Set dwell precisely from 3 to 20 milliseconds in increments of 0.25 milliseconds.
Additional Features • Short detection • Improved stiction and trigger-reading algorithms
Joule Creep is a hotly debated topic in the airsoft community, particularly pertaining to HPA. Here is our explanation for what exactly is going on when Joule Creep takes place.
what’s up guys today on what’s attack we are talking about jewels versus FPS so when you’re talking jewels being airsoft got the energy of the BB and there’s two basic levels of misunderstanding the first is why the weight of the BB matters at all they’re all little BBS they’re all really light so what’s the difference why can’t we just measure the velocity we’re shooting at why does it matter if this velocity is 350 FPS why does it matter with the dead spree 50s we ask the point to s 4.3 or whatever else you’re shooting so this is a first level of misunderstanding we’re going to jump on this one first and then we’re going to get a jewel cream so the real problem here is that we’re talking about such small things when cutting up DBS they’re really really small they’re all the same shape same size and so and the weight difference isn’t enough that we can detect it very easily just holding it in our hand let’s scale this up and talk about something that we understand much more intuitively for instance oh I have two vulture they’re both same size roughly one is baseball the other is a plastic ball now I’m pretty sure that all of you if I gave you the option of being hit with this ball at 80 miles an hour or this ball at 80 miles an hour pick this one because we noticed a difference the light ball is not going to hurt as much the same way with an airsoft peak now the difficulty is can’t see the difference right but this difference is still there you can still measure the difference it makes a difference how much it hurts that’s really what we’re talking about the same size but they weigh different amount so if you throw them at the same speed the heavier one’s going to hurt more and do more damage that’s why this is the requirement that’s why we have velocity limits at a given BB weight now some of you might be saying but I don’t actually care about the weight it’s actually the warm ball is harder than the other and that B is a contributing factor but keep in mind that the real issue here is that there’s hopefully these are actually the same way 12 grand BB is going to be made out of a much softer plastic generally 28.4 grandbaby so there is a difference there but the main difference is still the weight and that’s the main thing that we have to worry about when we’re talking about how much damage the baby is going down all right so that’s the basic misunderstanding in terms of energy or joules versus velocity now let’s talk about jewel creep jewel creep is a little bit more complicated but it mostly is complicated because again we don’t think about it the right way now jewel Creek is a phenomenon that the same gun set up exactly the same way well actually shoot harder not in terms of the velocity but in terms of the energy you’re putting out or the joules you’re putting out if you put in heavier bb’s nothing else changes on the gun right the same squaring or the same air pressure same barrel hop-up all that kind of stuff but all you do is you swap babies and all of a sudden it’s hitting harder now this intuitively doesn’t seem right to us because we think it’s the same gun it hit harder just because we changed the weight of the beat it’s a little difficult to get a really good visual on that so instead of ball we’re going to talk about bags so to demonstrate this point we need to do some science thankfully we have a great volunteer here who is going to let me hit them with both bats and tell us which one hurts more so unfortunately we have to report that the test was a failure we selected an unqualified test subject and after the completion of the test they were unable to provide any data at all but good thing we found a new test subject so for the actual experiment we’re going to be hitting potatoes I will be swinging two bats one that is a light plastic bat one is the standard baseball bag and we’re going to see the dramatic difference that the weight of the bat has on the damage done to the potato keep in mind that the same person is swinging both bats essentially as hard as I can I don’t suddenly become stronger by picking up a heavier bat and yet it allows me to do much more damage to the same potato so what’s going on here obviously by using a heavier bat I can do a lot more damage I can build up a lot more energy with the heavier bat and the same thing is true with the airsoft gun even though the gun itself isn’t stronger the spring isn’t any stronger than air running is the same pressure by using a heavier projectile we improve the efficiency of the energy transfer it’s a fancy way of saying that we basically allow the gun to build up more energy by giving it a heavier projectile now how this happens in the airsoft gun in particular the amount of energy that we can build up in the BB is a function of how hard we’re pushing on it and how long we push for this is just the same as if you put a bunch of weights on a card and you start to try get to try to get the cart going as fast as you could and build up as much energy as you could the longer you push on the cart and the harder you push on the cart together are going to build up more energy in the cart it’s the same with the baby with a heavier baby it’s going to build more back pressure in other words it’s going to provide more resistance to the air trying to push it so the pressure is going to build up and provide a greater force on the BB also because it’s heavier is going to take longer to accelerate so the heavy BB will actually stay in the barrel longer meaning that the air can work on it for a longer period of time this is actually true whether you’re talking about a EGS or HPA system serve just about anything else now why is it more pronounced with an HPA system this is a little bit complicated but it has to do with the fact that the HPA system can generally provide a continuous flow of air so it can keep building up pressure as long as you want whereas the AEG is firing a fixed volume of air so it can only build up so much pressure behind the BB so essentially both systems do it but the HPA system jewel creeps more efficiently so if you’re a field owner a game organiser or anybody responsible for ensuring the safety of an event this means you need to do one of two things first you can chronograph each player with the pv so going to use this will allow the cartograph to give you good energy that they are actually going to be shooting on the field now this cue serious problems with this obviously the person could be lying about what wait BB they’re using we don’t really have a good way to measure that on the field or at the chrono station second they could change meetings afterwards again so much you can do about it so there’s a number of problems with that so your second option is what actually what we recommend how much effect you get from drill Frank is a function of how much change in BB weights you have so if you croto your players would point to grandbabies and they go out on the field with point 4s there can be a huge difference in the energy output of the system so what we recommend is chrono with heavier BBS you don’t have to use the heaviest point for four point four threes but if you crono everyone would say point three twos the effect of the Joule creep going four point three to point fours if they’re playing with them on the field is not going to be nearly as dramatic as if you chrono with point twos and then they’re actually shooting of course not all tires out there it’s your responsibility as the owner of the gun and the person pulling the trigger to ensure that you are playing safely and you’re not endangering the people you’re playing with that means that even if your field doesn’t require cronoing with heavyweight leading or and this requires growing point twos this is very common it’s your responsibility to understand your own gun and make sure that you’re shooting safely so if their limit is four hundred with point twos but you’re going to be shooting point fours then you need to check your gun ahead of time make sure that you chrono at appointment point twos so that you’re still at a safe jewel rating when you switch to point four if you need help with how to do that get in touch with us we can provide lots of information it makes the process very easy and I’m sure the field owner will not mind butter there coronagraphs for the game in order to make sure you’re playing safely and fairly thanks for watching guys I hope this video has shed a little light on this grand mystery of the dual crews if you like this video want more content like this be sure to give us a subscribe here on YouTube give us a follow on Facebook and Instagram for more good content around not only our products but everything having to do with airsoft
Does your WRAITH X buffer tube not line up perfectly with your upper receiver once you tighten it down? Don’t keep wrenching on it! Use a 2mm hex key to loosen the buffer tube from the regulator, orient it perfectly, and tighten it back down!
Rich demonstrates how to install a HYDRA in the PDR-C.
Video transcript: all right so today we’re gonna take a look at how to install on one of my personal favorites the Magpul PDRC we’ve got one here we’re gonna go ahead and tear this down before we do that let’s go over quickly what’s gonna come with the Gentoo hydra Magpul PDRC kit you will get your custom wire harness folh replaces the existing trigger block and makes it much easier to install you also get this jumper wire which connects to your solenoid and then you’ll get all your little hardware here for connecting these switches to the 3d printed block you’ll also obviously get your FCU battery airline all the standard stuff so let’s go ahead and tear this down alright now we have arrived at the first sort of tricky part on this gun now you have the pushrod system here and it’s very easy to lose parts if you aren’t careful but the nice thing is this side of the pushrod system we’re going to completely get rid of so you can just go ahead and pull it out there’s three little screws here and there’s a spring attached I like to take the three screws out not the one on the spring so that it retains the spring again getting rid of all that and you can say that see that way the screw here retains the spring so if we need that now we can take that one off this is your magazine release mechanism so this we do want to make sure we hold on to all the parts let’s go ahead and get the wiring here out of the way and what I’m gonna do is I’m just gonna loosen these up I’m not gonna take the screws all the way out you should be able to disengage that push rod mechanism hold the push rod down and pop that up so now the whole gearbox can just pull out of the lower and we will set the lower aside for me I’m gonna go to work on the gearbox there are a few pieces that you are not going to need anymore I’ll go ahead and take them off this is again just part of your trigger mechanism it doesn’t hurt to leave it on but also doesn’t help just go to town taking gearbox apart should all be Phillips head screws this does have a quick change spring mechanism so well take advantage of that to decompress the spring before we pop the gearbox in here you might want to do that before you take all the screws out so take a six millimeter hex key and of course we don’t need that anymore so now we can split the gearbox we got all the screws go let us know pretty quickly if we didn’t so I forgot about this at this point we do have to actually take this all the way off take it off carefully so you don’t send any of these little screws flying one more screw right there now so pull out all our gears all right so the switch we’re not going to use so you can decide or it if you want that would be the neat way to do it for the sake of keeping this on video I’m just going to trim the wires right into the switch if I wanted to I could salvage that have enough wire there so set that aside as well and the wiring can go to one more piece of the trigger mechanism here cutoff lever you don’t have to remove this but why not at this point I’m gonna take this over and wash it out because it’s pretty greasy and it’s got a good bit of grit in there looks like the gears were grinding pretty badly so I’m gonna go ahead and wash this out and then we’ll come back and do more video gave you a quick little acetone bath just to clean it up wiped it down with a paper towel to get most of the grease off and now we’re gonna go ahead and drill the air line let’s talk about how we’re gonna do that now in this gun we want the air line hole in both the gearbox and the body to line up here’s what we’re gonna do notice I’ve put four screws back in one two three four that’s just to support the body while we drill now I’m gonna put the gearbox back in and I’m gonna put in back in a couple of our screws that hold the gearbox into the body of the gun one front one back should be fine for what we’re doing just something to hold it in place now the easiest way to make sure that both holes we drill out drill line up in the same place is going to be to drill them sort of at the same time but here’s how we’re gonna do it I went to airline to come out right about here in this case so my preferred location on this gun now ultimately we’re gonna want a 3/8 hole because we’re gonna do an FGL here but to get us started I’m gonna start with about 1/8 inch drill bit I’m gonna find a spot I want there’s a little bit of a scheme in the body you can find just locate in the center and then I’m going to drill through the gearbox or sorry through the body of the gun and just far enough that I feel I feel it hit the gearbox and then just run a little bit you’re not trying to drill through the gearbox there you’re just trying to mark it mark it in line with the hole you just drilled so let’s go ahead and see got here alright so looking in the body we have our hole right here or pilot hole have a matching mark on the gearbox or we can go ahead and drill that out so now I’m going to take this over to device I’m going to go ahead and drill my larger hole again I’m doing an F G L so we’re gonna do 3/8 if you’re just doing a standard line you could get away with 5/16 or maybe even a quarter inch for this purpose we’re gonna go ahead and do a 3/8 hole right there and right there on the body alright so got our hole drilled nice and centered it was a good idea to deburr those edges use a file or if you have one a debugging tool so let’s go ahead and finish up with the gearbox here real quick and then we move on to the rest of the installation these screws back out alright so here’s our agenda Hydra the PDR is actually a below Center nozzle so the Hydra logo is going to go on the back side this is going to get an F GL I said I’m already upgraded and only thing you gotta watch for is if we line up the airline where we want it and then we look we’re running into the c-clip here so what I’m gonna do I’m just gonna rotate this around a moment go ahead and install the airline writing it down with a quarter inch wrench don’t don’t need to over tighten it just snug but now when I rotate this back around to where I want it it’ll push the c-clip with it so you can get it lined up where you want this can just drop right in there our airline and go out the opening we just drilled there the only other thing we got to do is take our wiring jumper here plug it into the back of the solenoid and then it just comes and out the back of the gearbox where the quick change spring guide go so you go ahead and put the gearbox back together remember to check that your two little screw plates are in there and also just remember that you’re gonna have to pop the mag catch forward we’re free to move your box screws back in as is often the case with these builds we’re not going to put all the gearbox screws back in just because there’s really no need for all of them once you don’t have the load of the gears and spring and all that so we’re just gonna put in enough to hold it securely we’ll do four here different corners notice I left this one out because that one’s annoying disassembling it in the future got all of your box done only final thing we have to do is go ahead and reattach the plate here for the mag release lever so you gotta hook the spring on the part it’s best if you just don’t unhook it but in washing it came unhooked so we’re gonna go ahead and one of our little retention screws back in the one at the back so it has more room to play because again we want to just have that on there loosely so that we can reattach the push rod mechanism there and you are done with the gearbox installation now let’s talk about the trigger so the PDR kit is going to include one of these nifty new 3d printed trigger replacement units what this does is it replaces the push rod mechanism with a microswitch trigger makes it very very nice trigger keeps the double action trigger but along with that you’re going to get your wire harness here which has two different switches a connector plug and then your connector for your FCU you will also get a little bag that has your screws some washers and a few little nuts so let’s go ahead and put this together I’m gonna put two of my nuts here in these little slots now see this part that sticks down that goes the back and then the trigger is going to sit just like that not the other way around go ahead and grab one of our one of our screws here highly recommend magnetizing your screwdriver no need to over tighten these we are attaching to plastic so we don’t want to damage the plastic by going nuts with a screwdriver that is your trigger switch now your selector switch your this is a two-stage trigger so it acts on the full trigger pull in full auto it’s going to get attached right like this you notice that the button is off if we look at the back of this trigger block the orange button is too the more to the right side of the switch and this has little retainers for the nuts that’s it on the back side you can hold it with your finger on these we need to put some washers too should work but we do provide an extra one just in case maybe your screw is a little on the long side or something we’re going to go one two there we go two of these little washers again no need to over tighten this just snug it down so there we go that’s probably the most tedious part of the whole process is just putting those on it’s really not too bad just take your time at small parts if you’re not used to working with small parts it can be a little tedious process so we got our trigger mechanism assembled now the extra to the extra two washers what we’re looking for is we don’t want the screws to come out past the end of this past this surface here they do they’ll run into something in the gun so we’re just checking that they’re there flush and here we’re good with two washers we should be in general but we provide a couple extra just in case all we’re going to do to install this trigger mechanism is to undo these two screws set that whole assembly aside is the two screws and this whole piece the whole trigger push rod just comes out you don’t need that there’s a little ball bearing they also don’t need that now we’re just going to set this in making sure that we the trigger lever there in front of the nub on the trigger that will activate it drop that right in put our two screws back in and there we go you can hear you have a nice quick micro switch and then if you pull it all the way it’s the second switch and that activates full auto a very clean very easy trigger pull this off well how’s our FCU and battery in the grip now we can just drop our gearbox back in and I forgot to mention earlier earlier it is a half inch drill bit on the body 5/16 or 3/8 won’t work on the gearbox when our body we want to hear that I said that wrong earlier we want to go ahead and re-engage the selector switch mechanism or the mag release mechanism there we go wiring comes up here plugs into our wire harness tuck under there just like the stock wiring and at that point really we’re all set all right so we’ve got this all put back together barrel and hop-up and I’ll just go back together like normal so let’s give it a shot see how it des semi and then fold for your pole do full real nice I love this gun this is one of my personal favorites I’m going to be doing another video here probably a little while showing you some of the other things we’ve done on this gun to improve the feeding and such with the the PDRC feed mechanism thanks for watching guys hope this was helpful and we will see you guys out on the field
Rich demonstrates how to install the BOLT M in the Silverback SRS.
Video transcript: what’s up guys this is Richie today on what’s the tech we’re gonna take a look at how to do the installation on the bolt m4 SRS let’s get started before we get started we’re gonna need to gather a couple tools so first of all we want to take get some gun staff or other silicon-based lubricant then we’re gonna want to get a drill with a three sixteenths inch drill bit approximately can be a little different size it’s not super critical we just need clearance for the air line and then next we’re gonna need either a dremel or a saw or something that you can cut a slot I here with Dremel is the easiest thing but you can use various things in a pinch so let’s go ahead and jump in and see what we have to do so as you can see we’ve already disassembled everything here we’re not going to go over how to disassemble the SRS in this video if there are plenty of videos showing how to do that in addition you’ll notice that the modifications have already been done so we’re just going to be talking about what those modifications were it’s pretty straightforward but as you can see we have the three butt pad plates here this is the first plate second plate and then the butt pad okay don’t have to do anything with that but these two here we have small small modifications – let’s start with the first plate first plate has the larger hole cut out in it and what we need to do is we need to cut a slot that’s approximately 3/16 wide and about one inch long from straight down from the center as you can see here what this is going to do is it’s going to make clearance for our airline to sit right like that the exact dimensions are not super critical but you want about no less than four millimeters wide again for you people working in millimeters or about 3/16 for those of you working inches and you want it about one inch to a little over one inch or 25 millimeters from the bottom edge of the hole down to the bottom of the slide easiest way to do that is with a dremel but you could also use a hacksaw or something like that if you need to to clear that material it’s just plastic so it’s easy to cut the next thing we’re going to need to do is the second plate we need to drill a hole approximately 3/16 of an inch right and what we’re going to use as a guide is the two braces on the back here we’re going to go right in the corner of the brace there again size is not super critical all we’re doing that is it allows us to disassemble the unit more easily once it’s installed so those are your modifications there and then the last thing that you’re going to need to do it’s going to be to take that same drill we’re going to need to drill a hole for our airline now that is going to go right in this location here you can simply drill straight through the wall all the way through now you could also if you wanted to cut a track sort of on the side of the wall here but I find it’s easier to simply drill a hole straight through and that’s it as far as modification so it’s pretty straight forward now let’s talk about the engine itself those of you that have seen our bolt m4 VSR this will look very familiar it shares a lot of hearts Center shaft is from the VSR bar ten engine as is the cylinder and the cylinder head actually is the same as the Ziller cylinder head that we use on the Stryker so a lot of common parts there now I what will look a little different is this front piston shaped piece here with an o-ring around the backside of it and then the airline adapter here is obviously a different geometry for this gun other than that all pretty familiar in order to do the installation we need everything completely torn down the all the spring and piston removed from the existing cylinder and we’re just going to need the existing cylinder here with the cylinder handle attached now with this gun instead of making a complete replacement cylinder head what we’ve opted to do is to make an insert that actually will fit inside the cylinder and just press up inside the cylinder there and sit flush against the cylinder head before we install it we’re going to want to get some of that lubricant and we’re gonna want to lubricate the large ring around the outside a little bit so make installation easier easier and then we’re gonna want to lubricate the shaft on the back portion here now we’re going to take this and put the shaft inside the opening on the front of the bolt and now we’re going to use the engine we’re going to seat that piston all the way flush up against the front of the cylinder and there you go it’s installed easy enough now we’re just gonna put everything in the gun first we’re going to reinstall the cylinder now we’re going to take the engine simply slide straight in airline it’s going to get rounded down through that hole that we just drilled it can be trimmed to any length that you want it now in order to install the plate where we’re going to do is we’re going to actually pull the the center shaft of the engine back a little bit so the airline alright so that the chef’s comes through the center and then we can install the plate and then push the airline into place next plate just snaps on and then your butt pad and you’re done now to remove the unit from the gun what we’re going to do is we’re going to first remove the butt pad that’s this normal now you remember that hole that we drill in the in the second plate that is going to let us push forward on the engine a bit push it out of the way so that we can then remove the plate you’re probably going to have to pull the trigger push forward and there you go now we can use the bolt again to push the engine back which will allow us to remove the last plate one more time reassembly plate slides over the air line is installed and then the last two plates just install normally so that’s it for the installation of the OEM SRS silverback I hope this has been helpful if you have any questions comments section below do our best to get back to you thanks for watching guys
